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#17344 10/04/2003 12:06 AM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 141
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Posts: 141
Today we pulled an old 216 from a '51 and I was
going to remove the bellhousing but ran into some bumps in the road. In order to get at the (2) bottom bolts going from bellhousing to block it looks like I must remove the pressure plate and flywheel?

Maybe this is just a senior day for me, but can someone confirm this requirement, or please tell me another approach. Unfortunately the engine is frozen and I can't turn the flywheel to get to the pressure plate bolts....ughhh.

Baffled in Oklahoma
shoeless

Joined: May 2001
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W
'Bolter
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W Offline
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Yep, there are more bolts that you can't get at unless you remove the other stuff.

(You'll learn not to listen to me, though, until you get at least one confirmation. I'm a one-truck man and never will be an expert through trial and error on many old Chevy trucks!

And I see that it will take about 1000 posts to get my '48 going again!!)


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
Joined: Feb 2001
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Do you know which pistons are stuck?
if so, remove those connecting rod caps and keep them numbered and note the direction like ralphy mentioned. You may be able to get it turned over enough to get the pressure-plate off and then you can get to the bolts that hold the flywheel on.
If you cannot get to the pressure-plate bolts that way, you will need to take all the connecting rod bolts loose and the main caps off. After those are all removed, you can wiggle/shake/maneuver the crankshaft and flywheel out. It will be really heavy,,,, trust me grin


There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us.
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Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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Thanks for the tips men. Last night I decided to squirt a few drop of 30W in each spark plug hole and let it simmer overnight. This afternoon I took the trusty crow bar and managed to get the old gal turning over nicely! Got the pressure plate out in about 30 minutes, then started working on the flywheel. Now I need to come up with a way to keep the engine from turning over ... hah! Even after moving those corner tabs on the bolt keepers, they are so tight I can't get one to break loose ... yet.

I still can't figure out why the engineers decided to put the bottom bellhousing bolts in there with the heads on the inside of the housing?

shoeless

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The Stovebolt page is so cool.

Another problem solved. smile

You guys rock.

-W

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Shoeless,, if you can get a 1 inch(??? might need to be 1&1/2 inch.) piece of angel-iron you can use it as a wedge between the flywheel teeth and the bellhousing to keep the flywheel from turning cool


There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us.
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Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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J
'Bolter
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shoeless you were lucky to get the motor to turn,I had to remove a bellhousing from a 41 in a junkyard that sat with no hood on it for 40 plus years. No getting that motor to turn over easily,a swivel socket will work to get the other pressure plate bolts off if you ever run into that problem again and cant get the motor to turn. grin

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Here's a nifty little trick to remember.
Today I cut a piece of 2 x 4 into a triangle, then wedged the little bugger between the flywheel and the bellhousing. Worked like a charm for keeping the engine from turning over and didn't do any damage to anything other than the 2 x 4!

The flywheel bolts were tight for about 1 turn, then easy to remove. The bellhousing came off nicely and will be used in the rebuild after some serious cleaning.

Thanks for all the tips guys.

shoeless


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