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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 | Ok folks,
I jacked up the front of the truck to check for king pin wear. Definite play when I grabbed the wheel top and bottom. I'm also getting play when I grab the wheel side to side and was wondering if this was also likely to be from the king pins or from loose wheel bearings.
Thanks
Bob | | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 52 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 52 | My guess: loose or worn wheel bearings. Swap 'em out and see what happens. ;-)
1946 GMC 1/2 ton 1967 Chevy 1/2 ton
This old truck sure looks neat, but where are the heated seat controls?!?
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | If you suspect the wheel bearings are loose, adjust them and try again. You need to know what is worn and what isn't. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Have someone grab the wheel for you & watch where the play is. Pay attention to the tie rod ends on side to side play. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 1,904 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2001 Posts: 1,904 | How does it drive? I think there should be some play. I remember a "20-20" TV show expose where front-end shops would lift a car and show the "terrified" owner the loose play in the front end. 20-20's expert mechanics said that was OK. I go by how it drives out on my '48. Radial tires made a ton of difference. 1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet 34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 | Thanks guys,
The bearings were repacked a couple of months ago, but I'll recheck those to start with and move on from there. There is a slight wander that wasn't there before. I've just hurt my back so it'll be a few days before I get round to it. Thanks again everyone.
Bob | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | While some play might be ok in a ball joint front end, it sure isn't for king pins. Speaking from experience, they will show play both ways. Also check the spring shackles and pivot bolt. They also get worn after a while and contribute to wander, especially when braking or hitting a bump.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 975 | Mozzie,
I think you are driving a 41-46? I adjusted my tie rod ends per the shop manual (mine are the original). Adjustment made a big change in my truck. It does not wander all over the road anymore. I put off my Kingpin project because it worked so well. Kingpins are still on the list for next winter tho. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 | Josiah and 46 thanks guys. I'll go over everything once this knackered back of mine improves a bit It's giving me time for plenty of light reading ( workshop manual ).
Cheers
Bob | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 | Just an update folks,
I adjusted the wheel bearing and that took away most of the side play and then adjusted the tie rods. Doing these two things made a huge difference to the sideways play. Still the same amount of vertical play coming from the king pins. When putting the wheel back on a couple of the lug bolts were loose and I knocked them back into the brake drum trying to get the wheel on. The splines on the bolts were pretty worn. The other surprising thing is that the plate inside the drum was loose. Looks like I'll have to source some new lug bolts that are a tighter fit. I could build everything up from the brake drum out and then fit the whole lot on but that doesn't solve the problem of the loose studs if I get a flat tyre and have to change the wheel.
Life wasn't meant to be easy.
Thanks everyone for the help.
Bob | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 151 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 151 | I get quite a lot of wander but luckily so far only in my brain. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 926 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 926 | If you have a good parts man,you could take one of the wheel studs to him/her and have the splines miked;then use the picture interchange books to locate studs that are like the originals but with slightly bigger splines. That's what I did on a '53 half ton I owned,but it was years ago,and I can't remember what I found that worked.Seems like the splines were a little longer,so I had to put two flat washers on the studs before I pulled them into the hub,but then they worked great. James | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 235 | ohpants. Aye you have to watch that wandering brain. Mind you a wandering eye can get you in more trouble.
James. Thanks mate. I found studs from an old Holden that are a good match. The splined section is a bit shorter but a few thou thicker so they have worked well and are a good solid fit on the hub.
Cheers
Bob | | |
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