The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Steering Box Question

I've got the steering all tightened up on my 37 1 1/2 ton truck with the exception of the steering box. The sector shaft has some play in it [ it moves up and down if you grap the steering arm] I have purchased some bushings and a new seal but I need to know if I can replace these with the steering box still in the truck? Has anyone had any experience doing this? Thanks for your help!

Hi Gary
I don't think you can remove the seal with the steering box installed. There may also be clearence problems to remove the sector, maybe not with a 1 1/2 ton. The hardest job is removing the steering arm and the steering wheel. Otherwise, removal and rebuild is straight forward process.

FYI. Starting in 1941, Chev inproved there steering box with the addition of the reciprocating ball design. It is a fairly easy swap and well worth it. 1937 used a key on the steering wheel and from 38 on they used splines so you would need to splice the two steering shafts together or use a later steering wheel. They bolt to the frame the same and use the same pitman arm.

You should be able to replace the sector bushing with out pulling the box if you have room between the engine and box. You will need to pull the side cover off the steering box and the pitman arm from the shaft. If you have the room, the sector will slide right out. The seal will come out the tire side and the bushing you can drive out the engine side. You will also find a steel spacer sleave between the seal and bushing. I don't know what it does but just put it back where it came from.

If you can't get it out this way, you can loosen the box from the frame and lower it out the bottom. Just remove the column drop from the dash. It's really not necessary to pull the wheel if you don't want to. The steering shaft has bearings on both ends so just tighten them up from the end of the box. The little end of the sector has a 1/2" ID bearing in the housing cover. You may want to check it for wear before replacing it. I found if you cut a slot in the bearing with a hand heald saw blade, then chip it out with a punch, its not to bad of a job.

I recently changed my '37 over to the 41-46 gear box. I used the whole unit with a '46 wheel. It matches the original real close and if you didn't know the difference, you would never know it wasn't factory. The real problem with this is finding a good steering wheel. The material used during the war does not hold up well. The reproductions that were out, are now on hold again. I really couldn't tell much difference in driving. Its a little easyer at highway speed but down slow or parking is about the same. I am rebuilding the '37 box now to but back in. The '37 wheel I have is perfect shape. One other problem I ran into, is the upper bushing for the column on the 37-38's is no longer avalible. I am working on a new one using nylon or Maple wood.

I have two boxes apart now, let me know if you need a picture or more help, Joe

Thanks for the info guys! Joe, do you have a length measurement of the sector? If so i'll measure to know if I have the clearance to the engine block to get it out of there. Keep me posted! thanks

Total length is 7.5" , but you only need 5" till it clears the inner bushing and starts to come out side ways. Joe

Thanks Joe! If I get the honey do list done this weekend I sneak out to the garage to take a peak at it and maybe even start get going at it it. Thanks again.