I remove the rocker arms and pushrods, and attach two short pieces of angle iron to the cylinder head with 3/8-16 grade 8 bolts. Then use a piece of 5/16" chain linked to the angle iron with clevises to lift the engine. Lift from slightly rear of center to account for the weight of the flywheel, clutch, and bell housing. If you remove the front sheet metal- - - - -fenders, hood, and radiator support, it's a LOT easier to pull the engine on that style of truck. That assembly can be removed all in one piece with a little forethought and a couple of strong-armed helpers. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
If you have the rockers with studs that hold the valve cover on, you can use them as attaching points. I do that on my 216 with an engine leveler that I built from a trailer tongue jack. I pull and install the engine with the 3-speed transmission attached. Picture #1 shows that. I've use the same setup with the cab on as well (front clip removed. The 48-51 Truck Shop manual shows using a couple of eye bolts in place of a couple head bolts. Picture #2 is an excerpt from that manual. Pic #3 shows the eyebolts and lifting bracket from the special tool figure in the manual.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
