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#1601641 04/11/2026 5:23 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 50
5
'Bolter
'Bolter
5 Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 50
I am needing to R&R the 216 in a 1946 1/2 ton
Not seeing much clearance for the cherry picker
What is the best way to pull the engine with picker ?
Or not possible without a A frame ?
Thanks

52-Mobil #1601643 04/11/2026 5:37 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
I built an engine leveler out of an old trailer tongue jack that bolts directly to the valve cover studs on a 216. With a shortened chain on the cherry picker, I don't even need to remove the hood on my '51. But I did remove the front clip.
Attachments
IMG_4362.JPG (381.93 KB, 103 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
klhansen #1601645 04/11/2026 5:45 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 50
5
'Bolter
'Bolter
5 Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 50
Thanks trying to find out if I have to use a A Frame
Not wanting to remove front clips

52-Mobil #1601648 04/11/2026 5:53 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Run your cherry picker up to it's highest point and measure that and the engine height to see if it'll be high enough with the rigging to clear the fender (radiator is even higher.) If you have a couple of rollers to move the truck, you could remove the front wheels to get another 6-9 inches by lowering the front.
The front clip removal wasn't a hard thing on my AD. Two nuts at the radiator support, the two radiator support rods at the firewheel, and 4 or 5 fender bolts on each side. Your 46 should be similar. Here's how I picked the front clip.
Attachments
IMG_7534.JPG (284.86 KB, 100 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
52-Mobil #1601652 04/11/2026 7:27 PM
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 153
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 153
I’m all for pulling the front clip, it’s not necessary to remove the hood. I have always done it that way. It makes everything so much easier. You and an assistant can do it in an afternoon.


I invest my money in precious metals, mostly rust!
52-Mobil #1602585 04/25/2026 7:23 PM
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 72
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 72
I just pulled the front bumper, grill, and radiator support to pull my engine and reinstall a new one. Fenders moved just a little if you leaned on them but no real issue there. Did not pull the hood and I used a cheapo Harbor Freight cherry picker with a load equalizer to get the engine out. It was close but I took the engine out by myself and did not hit anything during the process. Had help on the install.

Deegs
Attachments
Engine bay After.jpg (192.99 KB, 40 downloads)


1953 3100
52-Mobil #1602586 04/25/2026 7:53 PM
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 187
3
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 187
52-Mobil,
I did an engine swap about a year ago on my 46 Chevy 3/4 ton. My son and I did remove the front clip, wasn't that big of a job to do so. Makes it so much easier to swap engines or just removing it for a rebuild. Also, made it much easier to work on the front if needed. I did the shocks and put in new front leaf springs at that time.
Make your life easier and remove the clip - just my 2 cents worth.
Tom


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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