Should I mount the seat over the new carpet or cut holes larger enough for the seat floor mounts or go strait onto the the carpet with the bolts?
Edit by Moderator: I removed your post from your previous thread and started a new thread.
It’s always better to start a new thread if you have a new question not related to the original issue, so it will get the attention it deserves. The title will draw in more ‘bolters to answer you question
Last edited by Phak1; 12/10/20259:48 PM. Reason: Started new thread
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
If you try to just drill a hole thru the carpet, the bit will grab the carpet threads and start to unravel them from the carpet leaving a very unsightly hole.
I would place the seat in it’s permanent position, mark where the holes are to be, then use a gasket punch to make very clean bigger holes, allowing the bolts to pass thru without interference.
Alternately, you could use a utility knife with a new blade.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I found that a hot soldering iron will make perfect holes in the carpet for the seat bolts. It melts the fibers and they don't fray.
Wayne 1938 1-Ton Farm Truck Stovebolt Gallery Forums 1989 Silverado 1996 Mustang GT convertible When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I guess the method would depend on whether the new floor has been drilled already.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Yes new footboard & floorboard. Holes drilled & seat positioned, bolts in. Removed to upholster the seat. I have the springs repaired & replaced others. It’s painted so hopefully upholster it tomorrow. I started removing & figuring out what to do & how to proceed back around the 1 st of June! I’ll post pictures tomorrow. Good ideas on putting the holes in the carpet!
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
I’ve got the burlap on& a sticky back thin carpet over that. The 2 inch foam looks too thick to allow the back rest to move over it. Should I order 1 inch or just not attempt to put the foam under the back? I could split (thin it out) it at the back seat? The outside end higher than the center section. Just adding that I did remove the back seat, trimmed the foam thinner. The cover sure has a lot of excess material in the back, if I have it turned correctly (front to back)?
Last edited by glennj3; 12/12/20258:05 PM.
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
~Charley 1954 Chevy 3100 with 235 “Bud” Follow along in the DITY 1963 Chevy half ton stepside short box 230 1954 GMC 3 ton 302 And several more Chevy camper and work trucks 1979 1987 1996
I had wondered where I could get some of those. I’m pretty sure I have it on backwards but I’m not removing it now. I’ll find some vinyl & cover the front springs.
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY