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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,232
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,232
Since I’m replace front leaf springs. I can’t find the torque requirement for the Ubolts that hold the axle to the springs or how tight the front shackle (name?) bolts should be. Previously, I think I over tightened them and destroyed the rubber bushing/seal.

Thanks

Chris

Ps I prefer to use something more specific than 2 grunts of torque.

Last edited by Gdads51; 11/04/2025 8:44 PM. Reason: add detail to title
Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
In the text for spring and u-bolt installation in the service manual, it just says "tighten securely", but I just found the torque specs on page 4-48 of the 48-51 Service Manual.
Rear U-bolts: 1/2 ton 75-90 ft lb, 3/4 thru 1-1/2 ton 210-235 ft lb, 2 ton 375-400 ft lb (sure glad I don't have a 2-ton wink ) I went with 100 ft lb on my 51 3100
Front U-bolts (page 3-13) same on 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton thru 2 ton 125-150 ft lb.
I didn't find shackle bolt torque, but I think 25 ft-lb should do it. Again the service manual says "tighten securely", then says smack the shackle arms with a hammer and retighten.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
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Thank you! I missed that when I looked! My brain is all over the place right now.

Chris

Joined: Feb 2005
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U
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by klhansen
... Again the service manual says "tighten securely", then says smack the shackle arms with a hammer and retighten.

I missed that part. Might need to get the BFH out and do some smacking!


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
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B
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by UtahYork
Might need to get the BFH out and do some smacking!

If it were an import pickup would you need to use a metric hammer?


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon
If it were an import pickup would you need to use a metric hammer?
No but you'd need to torque the shackle bolts to 34 newton meters. wink


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2016
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K
'Bolter
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Proper torque = 1/4 turn before you wring it off.


Mike

1951 3100 5 window
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J
'Bolter
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My computer is old and acting up so no copy and paste, just google search u-bolt torque. Most all the spring manufacturers have charts on their web sites. Torque values are for the thread diameter, doesn't matter what they go on. 1/2"-20 u-bolt for example, torques to 52-70 ft lbs depending on if its oiled, dry, or plated. After some drive time, they need a re-torque.

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G
'Bolter
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if you can wring a "U" bolt off with a 3/4 inch wrench, well thats doing something. Tighten the best you can,
drive it and tighten again.


~ BD.
"You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker
1958 Apache Stepside
1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
I've used the "torque it till it breaks and back off 1/2 turn" technique a time or two. wink I have broken 1/2-inch bolts while torquing them with a 2' lever arm torque wrench, but a 3/4 hex combo wrench would be a bit more than I could do.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 114
R
'Bolter
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OP - Be aware that almost all axle u-bolts are torque to yield, and should not be re-used. Although probably millions have been reused without issue, personally I'd get new ones and torque them according to the fabricator.

Some useful info attached.
Attachments
U-Bolt Torque.pdf (2.82 MB, 14 downloads)


Geoff

1955 2nd Series 3600 235 cid, 4 sp. - Current
1979 Chevy K10 350 cid 4 sp -Sold
1955 2nd Series Wide Window 283 cid 3 sp - Totaled
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Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
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Geoff - For some folks that find having to download a PDF like this troublesome or difficult, I've captured each of the 4 pages of the document as pictures and attached them below for easier viewing.

Thanks for sharing this information! thumbs_up The safety aspect is definitely a good point to bring up. wink
Attachments


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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'Bolter
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Interesting and useful information there. Never throw away your old U bolts before laying them on top of the new ones.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Jan 2013
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Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
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I just found that 1/2 ton is 90 ft/lbs…. Not 120 ft/lbs like I thought.
Attachments
IMG 4376.png (1.07 MB, 41 downloads)


Last edited by Gdads51; 11/04/2025 8:47 PM. Reason: fixed the image so it displays correctly (was sideways)
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1
'Bolter
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Years ago I pulled the front end apart to remove leaves from the front springs. I installed new U-bolts at that time. I don't remember the torque I used but probably a 7/8 socket with a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a length of pipe on it. Years later I would like to take is apart but using the same tool set up, I can't get it to budge. I was stronger when I assembled it... then there's rust. So this time I'll probably just cut them off with the torch... After the new springs come.


1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.

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