I pulled the 207 out of the truck this weekend preparing for the engine swap. My front motor mount was completely crushed, with the destroyed rubber squeezing our the bottom. The motor plate was pretty much down on the crossmember. I read this tech tip which shows a picture of how the front mount is supposed to be. https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/motor_mount_front/installed.jpg
Roughly how high off the crossmember is a good front mount supposed to be, assuming proper clearances? I need to know this to figure out what I'm going to do for a front mounting solution (a 235 does not drop right into a '36) I posted about pulley sizes and interfering with the crossmember in another thread which directly relates to this. Plus in general I need to know where the engine should be properly sitting.
Plus in general I need to know where the engine should be properly sitting.
Thanks! Ron
Your rear/torque tube, trans and bell housing will dictate where the engine will sit (front to back). The carb usually sits level with the ground...that will give you the side view angle.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
If you aren't using the original torque tube, the u-joint angles must match and that will dictate motor-mount height. One of my factory manuals says not to use front-end shims to raise the front of the engine, so that's what I did. It doesn't vibrate and the shims haven't worn their way into the cross member in the last 100.000 miles.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
1Ton...I figured I would work the pinion angles from the opposite direction. Set the motor, and adjust the rear end pinion angle prior to final welding the spring perches onto it.
I originally asked about the front motor mount height because I was considering making side motor mounts, and wanted to set the engine at the factory height. Now I'm working on fabricating a front motor mount instead, so will just be using a stock front motor mount. But if I need to adjust the height later, should be easy enough to do. Thanks for the reply!
I had a more complex situation with two driveshafts and a transmission in the middle, all of which had to be taken into consideration. Had to shim the auxiliary transmission to after mounting it on rubber.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.