The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (Hotrod Lincoln, greenie-reddy), 96 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,049
Posts1,055,741
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1580674 06/23/2025 6:49 PM
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 327
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 327
I pulled the 207 out of the truck this weekend preparing for the engine swap. My front motor mount was completely crushed, with the destroyed rubber squeezing our the bottom. The motor plate was pretty much down on the crossmember. I read this tech tip which shows a picture of how the front mount is supposed to be. https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/motor_mount_front/installed.jpg

Roughly how high off the crossmember is a good front mount supposed to be, assuming proper clearances? I need to know this to figure out what I'm going to do for a front mounting solution (a 235 does not drop right into a '36) I posted about pulley sizes and interfering with the crossmember in another thread which directly relates to this. Plus in general I need to know where the engine should be properly sitting.

Thanks!

Ron

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 226
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 226
This is a picture of a 50 GMC , 250 series It about 3/4 " high and is the stock replacement from several parts resellers.
Attachments
motor mount with 302.jpg (245.09 KB, 161 downloads)

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,634
U
'Bolter
'Bolter
U Offline
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,634
I have a 235 in my '46 and mine looks like this.
Attachments
IMG_9630a.jpg (90.42 KB, 149 downloads)


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
Here We Go
Follow in his DITY Bay

- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 327
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 327
Thank you gentlemen!

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 226
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 226
That 235 measurement is more accurate than my estimation.

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,214
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,214
Originally Posted by RBs36
Plus in general I need to know where the engine should be properly sitting.

Thanks! Ron

Your rear/torque tube, trans and bell housing will dictate where the engine will sit (front to back). The carb usually sits level with the ground...that will give you the side view angle.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,634
U
'Bolter
'Bolter
U Offline
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,634
Originally Posted by pdlightning
That 235 measurement is more accurate than my estimation.

Looks like we are using the same front engine mount.


~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
Here We Go
Follow in his DITY Bay

- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 892
1
'Bolter
'Bolter
1 Offline
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 892
If you aren't using the original torque tube, the u-joint angles must match and that will dictate motor-mount height. One of my factory manuals says not to use front-end shims to raise the front of the engine, so that's what I did. It doesn't vibrate and the shims haven't worn their way into the cross member in the last 100.000 miles.


1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 327
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 327
1Ton...I figured I would work the pinion angles from the opposite direction. Set the motor, and adjust the rear end pinion angle prior to final welding the spring perches onto it.

I originally asked about the front motor mount height because I was considering making side motor mounts, and wanted to set the engine at the factory height. Now I'm working on fabricating a front motor mount instead, so will just be using a stock front motor mount. But if I need to adjust the height later, should be easy enough to do. Thanks for the reply!

Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 892
1
'Bolter
'Bolter
1 Offline
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 892
I had a more complex situation with two driveshafts and a transmission in the middle, all of which had to be taken into consideration. Had to shim the auxiliary transmission to after mounting it on rubber.


1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0