The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1946 Chevy 1/2Ton in Utah - Here We Go

Well done, Grasshopper.

John - If they weren't heard, there's no evidence of them being said - LOL! This time next week, will we see a full running chassis bouncing around the neighborhood???

Still lots of work to do, Dan! I'll concentrate on the engine and I'd like to maybe get it running before putting the cab on? Or at least get it running before installing the front fenders and such.

Celebration! I have the engine installed! I'll work on the yoke and U-joint tomorrow.

Awww, you show-off! That’s awesome John. I’ve always looked at the engine install as a major milestone, but turning your frame into a roller is also a major milestone. Good for you. I’m celebrating with you from Maine.

Indeed! Remember the attached image from his first post?

John, you are "rolling" along alright.

Thanks Paul! It feels pretty good to come this far and I'm still motivated.

My 15 minutes today took 3 hours. I guess time flies when you're having fun. To be fair, one of my friends stopped by and we talk about the progress - that took a little time. But anyway, I was able to connect the torque tube to the transmission. I just need to paint and install the rear trans mount. (PS - I did bend the little tabs over to hold the bolts on the U-joint.)

Didn't feel like I got much done today. I painted a few things, but need to get some bolts to get them installed. I was going through some boxes on the shelf and I have everything to do a 12volt conversion. I keep debating if I should get the truck running with 6volt and then do a weekend project down the road. Well, the more I think about it, why not just do it once and be done with it? So right now I'm going with the 12volt - for now.

Dumb, dumb, DUMB! I have new bolts for most of the stuff I'm installing, so I decided to put the two bolts for the fuel pump in the holes so I can find them later. Yep, one slipped out of my fingers and in the hole it went. I'm pretty sure the neighbors heard me cussing all the way down the block. Well, I got my magnet out and was able to get the lock washer, but no bolt. Turned the crankshaft a little for a different angle, but nothing. Then I tried another magnet on the bottom of the oil pan to see if maybe I could drag the bolt closer to the fuel pump hole. I could tell I got the bolt a few times, but I could not get it to slide closer. On my last try when I pulled the magnet away, I heard the bolt drop to the deep end. So, I pulled the oil pan and got the bolt. It was sitting right next to the drain plug hole. I probably could have left it there? Anyway, bolt recovered and I scraped the gasket off the oil pan. Tomorrow I'll scrape the engine block and pick up a new gasket. Oh, and I did tape up the holes. Fun times!

There’s a story with a happy ending. Nice save

Installed my oil pan today (after my big goof up). I also took time to install the rear transmission mount. Flat to the cross member seem to be to much stress on the transmission, so I added a few washers as spacers to tilt the mount up a little bit.

A nice quiet Saturday in the garage and got a few things done. I had this battery tray sitting on the shelf for 20 years and decided to install it. I also installed a Speedi Sleeve on my harmonic balancer and then I drilled out the crankshaft and tapped some threads for a bolt. Got the drill guide and tap from 12Bolt.com and it worked great.

Today I was able to install the 6V starter and harmonic balancer. The balancer and water pump pulleys line up great, but the alternator pulley sits back 1/8 to 1/4 inch. I'll need to modify the bracket just a little.

John that all looks so great. It’s exciting to watch your truck coming together with nice clean and shining parts.

Paul, Once I get this bottom side all put together and test the engine, I'm sure I'll catch some grief about putting the old body back on with no new paint. But that's OK - I want it looking old.

John, I think plunking the un-restored body back on the newly restored mechanicals is just fine.

If there's any rust on the body underneath or whatever, I'd probably take care of it while the body is off. Other than that, you can always have the truck painted sometime in the future. I'd be all about getting it on the road and enjoying driving it.

I can do just about any of the mechanical work required but I've never done body work or cosmetic restoration on any vehicle. I'm sure I could do it but I don't have the patience for it or the time. I also don't have the money to pay somebody to do a proper frame off restoration so I would probably do the same thing you're doing.

When Ol' Roy first came to me, I wasn't too thrilled by its appearance. It didn't really "fit in" with the rest of the vehicles I own which are very presentable.

Well, the beat up nature of Ol' Roy has grown on me and nobody else seems to care what it looks like. I get as many compliments on it as I do any of the other "nice" cars I drive. Beat up trucks have a little more credibility in peoples' minds than beat up cars, I think.

I use it for work and it gets a couple hundred miles put on it each week. I've driven it over 10,000 miles in the last 3 1/2 years.

I look forward to seeing your truck put back together and on the road. I'd be driving it all the time.

Ol' Roy looks great. I'm not a body work guy, but I'll try to take time to remedy the rusty spots.

If that were my truck John, I would do the exact same thing. It has taken your truck 79 years to get the look it has, battle scars, dents, scratches and all. Fix the rot, paint the repairs so they don’t look too new, and drive that old girl.
I wish I had an old truck that looks old. I have some original paint, but mine appears to have been re-shot at some point, and what I have still has some gloss.

Fantastic job.15 minutes a day..and do it once and do it right gets r done. Enjoy watching it come together.

Alvin, I done did a few things twice! But with the help of the Stovebolt team, I believe I've ended up getting it right eventually.

When I installed the thermostat housing, I didn't notice that heater hose hole was 1/2" NPT and the water pump hole was 3/8" NPT. So, I was going to replace the housing with the one off my 216 since it had the same 3/8" NPT hole as the water pump. I wanted the smaller hole, so that my 5/8" heater hose would fit both. I was able to find some fittings that solved my problem.

Cleaned up the E-brake handle and got it installed last night. My friend asked why I didn't add a fresh coat of paint on the handle. Only "new" on the bottom side - top side stays looking "old". You can see in one picture that I painted the stomp bracket, but not the portion coming into the cab. Also, I'm having an issue with the brake cable fitting in the mount brackets. I'll have to look at it today - may need to bend the bracket open a little to fit the new cable ends.

My fuel pump rebuild kit came in the mail today. I was able to complete the rebuild, but I always scratch my head when there are extra parts. I replaced everything that could be replaced, so I'm just assuming there are extras because there are many different models of fuel pumps and the vendor is just covering all options.

You’re doing a great job! Staying motivated and consistent is the biggest battle, look forward to following this build!

Some frustration the last several days. Cleaning the brake/clutch pedal bracket was torture. Some much gunk - took a few days to get it cleaned. Then I took it to the sandblaster and he talked me into powdercoating it. Hind sight - I wish I would have just painted it myself. I had to scrape and file some areas that did not need coating. I installed new bushings and finally got the bracket/pedals installed on the transmission/bellhousing. This wore me down. OK, on to the next 15 minutes!

That really looks great John. How soon before your cab goes back onboard?

Well, I'm hoping to get the engine started at some point before I start adding body parts. Just want to make sure it runs - easier to remove if needed.

Do you happen to know the overall thickness of the engine mount or have a way to measure without too much trouble?

It's about 1 1/4 inches from frame to engine.

Thanks!

Hi John,

Did you happen to drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat before installing it? Since there is no bypass hose on the 216, the hole helps to allow air bubbles to escape to the radiator before the thermostat opens.

I found that recommendation here.

Not yet, but noted. I don't have a thermostat yet, but will drill a hole before installing it. Thanks Otto.

I see. I didn't pay close attention to your pictures. It's just dry-fitted instead of assembled.

Yes. You can see the bolts are not tightened down yet. I did read somewhere about drilling that hole, but had forgot about it. I think I'll go pick up a thermostat tomorrow and get the hole drilled before I forget again. I appreciate you looking out for me.

Getting my clutch and brake pedal springs installed. Just figuring out some geometry of the extension wire and spring bracket. Some have the wire going under the clutch fork, but it looks like mine was going over the top. Just need to decide how I'm going to do mine.

Picked up a thermostat and drilled an 1/8" hole for proper venting. I went with a 180 degree unit and if the engine runs to warm, I'll swap it for a 160 later. I also found some new fittings for the fuel pump and got that installed too. Just a little frustration here waiting for parts. I have 3-4 tasks at the same time and hoping something shows up tomorrow or this week. I did have a new fuel pump show up (not glass bowl), but it was DOA out of the box - they are sending me a new one.

I've been driving with a 160 thermostat for 4 years and the needle sits exactly at 180 at all times in all types of weather and traffic. When I rebuilt the radiator and water pump last summer, I replaced the thermostat as well with another 160. There's no delay in the engine reaching its 180 operating temperature.

I believe it was generally the recommended thermostat when new when used with permanent anti-freeze.

The 160 begins to open at 157- 165 and fully opens at 185.

The 180 begins to open at 175 - 184 and fully opens at 204.

I just looked at the old thermostat and it was a 160. Thermostats are cheap so maybe I'll go get one tomorrow. Oh well, gives me something to do while waiting for the mail! Thanks for the input Otto!

Update: Actually, before I went to the parts store a package showed up that contained a 160 degree thermostat. I order from different vendors and I guess I'm not keeping track of what I've ordered. Also, I installed a fuel pump without the glass bowl. I thought maybe after everything is up and running, I'll reinstall the glass bowl again when I feel safer that I won't break it.

Otto, I have this heater.