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#1572041 03/07/2025 7:15 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,953
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,953
The truck battery was dead. Seems the stomp starter lever was stuck on the starter button. The return spring is strong but it rods seem to get hung up somewhere. This has happened before but not to the point of killing the battery. Makes me think about putting in a key start. That will also be easier on my knee.


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Sedgewick"
In the Gallery
1989 Caprice
Sedgewick #1572047 03/07/2025 7:39 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,740
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,740
Check the condition of the cab mounts- - - -the cab can sag due to worn mounts and cause the starter pedal shaft to bind.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Sedgewick #1572076 03/08/2025 5:53 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
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I don't understand this battery dead cause theory. Wouldn't the starter spin and move the truck if in gear? Or side terminal burn out the points? Where was the draw? without spin.

Binding would be an easy fix. or make/buy or renew links and levers and pins if wallowed. Not much to it. Rather than new starter and switch and bypass and etc. The poor parts are 76 years old. Disassemble, inspect, clean, wire wheel derust, tweak and oil. In other words, standard procedure. The issue just needs TLC.

Last edited by bartamos; 03/09/2025 3:55 AM. Reason: adjustments

Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Sedgewick #1572104 03/08/2025 5:32 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,953
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 2,953
The truck was not in gear. I have battery cut-off switch so no power was going from the hattery to the truck. The linkage is free and there is no sign of a hang up. The return spring is intact and strong. The parts are not rustd at all and have been lubricated each time I lubed the chassis.
The only thing I can think of and it is not much is when the lever was touching the switch button on the starter it must have caused a slow discharge.


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Sedgewick"
In the Gallery
1989 Caprice
Sedgewick #1572109 03/08/2025 6:44 PM
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 213
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 213
If you have a battery cut off, no current should flow. Is it connected to the negative battery terminal and is this a manual spin knob or click switch, or is it an electric one with remote like what Amazon sells. Is there anything else connected to the battery not on the disconnect like aftermarket radio for memory?

I guess that if the starter contact has been burnt and always close to touching it might trickle as a high open with not enough current to trigger a full start??

Sounds odd.


Chip

'Rusto-Mod'
'51 Chevy 3600 5 window | C4 Corvette front/rear suspension & drivetrain | everything else looks old and stock
'92 GMC Sonoma GT #15 of 806
'91 GMC Sonoma GT Extended cab 1 of 1
Trucks, Trucks.....and more Trucks
Sedgewick #1572112 03/08/2025 7:50 PM
Joined: May 2005
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Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
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Could be a bad battery if there is a cut off switch. If lever rests on button then the linkage and spring are not all good. Examine and Adjust. The lever would have to actually push button in, to contact hot lug on starter, for a possible battery drain/draw, not just resting/touching.

If lever rests on button, it's wrong. So start with that in mind. That needs to be fixed regardless. The lever return spring may seem "strong" but it's not or needs one end moved. (just a note: there are two return springs involved, one is on the button).

Have battery load tested with a true carbon pile tester.

As Chip says, can you tell us where and how the cut off is wired, maybe a pic? That's very important for us to understand because if it does cut battery off completely, then for sure it's a bad battery or charging system or battery cables/connections. Can not be a parasitic draw.

Last edited by bartamos; 03/10/2025 2:33 AM. Reason: clarification/grammar

Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Sedgewick #1572174 03/10/2025 2:06 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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That switch on the starter has a long way to travel before the contacts touch. I doubt that the stomp starter has anything to do with the dead battery. All batteries die. Buy a new battery and drive your truck more often. smile


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Sedgewick #1572334 03/11/2025 11:04 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,953
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,953
The cut off switch is one with a On/Off twist. It is connected to the positive battery lead and the switch is under the seat on the valance. The battery is just over two years old and had a two year 100% replacement warranty. Fortunately the shop was kind enough to accept the late date and gave me a new battery.
The cut-off switch has been in use for over 10 years with no issues.
I have the impression that the lever was stuck on the brass button and that caused the failure. The spring under the button intact and the spring pulling the lever back is not weak.
I have since cleaned the pivot points on the linkage and put light grease on them. All seems okay now.


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Sedgewick"
In the Gallery
1989 Caprice

Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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