The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Manual Brake Pedal Feel Question

Hi Folks;

Newly acquired '55 2nd Series, all original, no power brakes. I just rebuilt the stock master cylinder, flushed the lines, and vacuum bled the brakes in the correct order. I have about 7" total brake pedal travel, and I'm getting a hard pedal at about 3 1/2". Is this about right?

I haven't driven a vehicle with manual brakes for 40 years or more; and I've totally forgotten how these things are supposed to feel. I rebuilt the master to get me at least some brakes now to move it in and out of garage; I'll do a full brake job, new updated master, possibly front disks etc... after I retire in a year or so.

Thanks

Sounds to me like you're got reasonable brakes there. I put my truck together with new everything on the brakes recently and they worked about like that.

Yes. I agree with Kevin. I drive my truck all the time and that's how mine are. As long as they're stopping the truck without pulling, you're good.

The long peddle travel probably indicates that the shoes need adjustment, as long as the peddle is hard and doesn't drop when applied, it sounds like you have it bled ok.

All - Thanks for the replys. I thought they were OK, but been so long I couldn't remember.

Thanks,

Manual adjust Bendix brakes need to be adjusted for a firm drag (not locked up) when the tire is turned, then back off 10 notches on the coarse tooth star wheel. Ignore any drag or scuff sounds once the starwheel is loosened. The brake shoes self center as soon as the shoes touch the drums. 10 clicks is only one turn of the adjusting screw, so you're not over-loosening the adjustment. The fine tooth self adjuster starwheel needs to be backed off 20 clicks, with the ratchet pawl pushed away from the wheel with a small screwdriver. I like to adjust for a pretty firm drag on all the brakes before bleeding- -- -that retracts the wheel cylinder pistons fully and forces the air to the center of the cylinder near the bleeder hole. Bleed first- - -then do a final adjustment.
Jerry

If you had everything apart on the backing plates, or installed new shoes, you'll need to adjust the anchor pin. The procedure is in the service manual and involves checking shoe clearance to the drum thru the slot at the edge.

If you are referring to the slot in the drum for inserting a feeler gauge, they discontinued that slot well before '55.

I still have those slots on my '51, and I have a pair of drums from a '53 that still have the slots.
But if you just tighten the shoes all the way with the adjuster and let the anchor pin relax to it's desired position, you probably don't need to mess with the slots.

I haven't done anything except rebuild the master. Pulled drums and did a quick looksee, fairly new shoes, drums were in good shape, could probably still be turned one more time. Thanks for the replies!

According to the '48-'51/ '52 Supplement Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual, The feeler gauge slots were discontinued. You likely have '51 drums on your '53, which is perfectly fine.