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#1530986 12/30/2023 1:27 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
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'Bolter
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The heat riser on my 228 is stuck. I have been spraying liberal amounts of PB And tapping each end with a small hammer for some time, but I can’t get it free. What are my options? I would like to avoid removing the manifolds.

What ill effects are expected with a stuck open heat riser?


Mike Barnes
1950 GMC 1-ton pickup
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'Bolter
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Other than heat ,PB and patience.
Will it move at all?


~ BD.
"You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker
1958 Apache Stepside
1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
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'Bolter
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No, it is stuck good.


Mike Barnes
1950 GMC 1-ton pickup
Joined: Jul 2014
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Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
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Unfortunately you will have your best chance at getting it free by removing the manifold, seperating the intake and exhaust and then removing as much buildup from the inside , continue to soak and tap left/right, repeat. applying heat ( torch , propane, etc... ) on both sides and then spraying with PB or Kroil and let it sit. Be carefull as both are flammable at some temp. It take a lot of patience but it can be done. It took me a couple of days to get mine freed up. I got very discouraged with the waiting for the PB to do its job.

Last edited by Dusty53; 12/30/2023 2:02 PM.

Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
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'Bolter
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Heat is the trick, oxy-acetylene with a small welding tip may be the answer so you can pin-point the flame at the casting, not at the shaft. Heat the cast till it's barely dull red on both sides, try to turn the shaft, if it won't move, let it cool completely and tap the shaft end.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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While it’s cooling, not when it’s red, spray a little bit of penetrating oil on both sides. The heat will help draw the penetrant in. Allot of patience is required and you don’t want to force anything. The last thing you want to do is snap the shaft off. This can be fixed but it requires allot more work. Tapping the shaft back and forth helps break the rust bond. Once you get it moving, spray more penetrant and keep working it back and forth. Good Luck!


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

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'Bolter
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Mine really freed up after I had it blasted. Not sure if you could leave it attached and use a gun of sorts to focus blast. Tapping back and forth and time.

Last edited by Peggy M; 12/30/2023 3:58 PM.

~ BD.
"You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker
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1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Heat and candle wax. Get the manifold around the shaft hot- - - -dull red is about right, then apply a wax candle or a block of paraffin from the canning department of your local grocery store. One package of paraffin will be a lifetime supply for several people. I use it when making cast bullet lubricant by the pound, along with beeswax toilet sealing rings and general purpose chassis grease.
Jerry


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'Bolter
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Thanks for all of the advice. Removing the manifolds will be my next project.

After the truck gets really hot it won’t start until it cools down. I hope correcting the heat riser issue will solve the problem.


Mike Barnes
1950 GMC 1-ton pickup

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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