Howdy Folks, I cannot get my original shift knob off the arm of my three on the tree shifter. I know it seems silly, but is there a trick to it...? All ideas are welcomed:
Is there a reason you need to get the knob off? If it needs to be replaced, just break it off. You can probably split it with a hammer. I think replacements are available from the usual vendors. Mine was OK, so I just masked it off when I painted the shifter lever.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The knob that is on there now is a little chipped up. I was looking for an easy and inexpensive, quick fix that I could diy - but I have tried to turn it off and it won't budge.
If I break it off, do the new ones thread back on or....?
The original knob is bakelite, an ancient form of plastic. Unlike plastic, it avails itself to repair by filing, sanding and polishing. The replacement knobs are not the right color. I restored an antique turn signal which consists of a large round body made of bakelite. It was a mess from oxidation. I was able to bring back its original luster by using sandpaper from coarse to 800 grit. I then polished it on a bench mounted buffer. Holy Moley does that thing pop now. It has a tortoise shell look to it due to the marbling in the bakelite.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
FWIW, some bakelite has asbestos in it. Sanding, grinding and/or buffing could cause it to become airborne and inhaled. Granted, disease from asbestos is years down the road from exposure and likely takes a significant exposure, but I'd steer clear. I'm speaking from the perspective of someone that worked for many years in a building that was known to have asbestos in the floors, ceiling and around the lead pipes....
If you decide to remove and abandon the old knob, try this:
Clamp a large vice grip onto the knob. Release vice grip and adjust it a partial turn tighter , then re-clamp. Repeat this process in small increments until the knob gives up and fractures.
Are you trying to save it or destroy it, to get it off? I wouldn't do anything until I had a replacement in hand...what you have is better than nothing.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
That is true sir! I imagine it is the original, because the shifter knob is a faded brown color. I got a new lower vent knob, because it was missing when I bought the truck, but it is a brand new shiny-brown maroon. I wish they matched in color...
A Dremel tool can be had for as little as $30, but a full kit goes for about double that with bits and other accessories. Knockoffs can be as little as $12. Link
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Good deal on the one Mike posted. If you know someone with Prime let them order it free shipping! I actually have two. You'll use it more than you think.
