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#152809 05/20/2007 12:49 AM
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Wrench Fetcher
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I have a 65 C30 it has a Daybrook (name on plate) hydraulic tailgate it works but not correctly there is a valve that you need to open to lower and close to raise. The valve looks to be a standard globe type valve. The is a push button type switch that does not work but it looks like it was used to control the unit it is a electrical switch. Not sure if any of this makes sense or not but what I a need to know is if anyone knows how this should work. 2nd question is there a way to drain and refill this system. I do not see a plug to refill it does have a relife valve on top and blew out some green fluid when I 1st ran it.
Ed

#152810 05/20/2007 8:02 PM
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First of all if it's a Daybrooke it's at least 35-40 years old as they went out of business about 1970 or so. But your likely OK on the power unit parts as it is "likely" a Monarch brand made in Grand Rapids, MI who are still very much in business. What you've described is a very common 12V manual valve power unit that has a motor/valve body/reservoir built into a sandwich design. The center section contains a small gear pump and there should be a manual directional valve that has a rod and lever attached to it. When you pull on the lever the dog where it attaches to the rod pushes on a starter button that starts the motor. A solenoid is on top of the motor also. The 3 position directional valve does not need a globe valve to operate the gate. It is a simple raise/hold/lower plunger type valve. If someone has installed a shutoff valve in the line that tells me that the directional valve is not holding the gate in position so they used a ball valve to block the line. Take the unit off, remove the oil reservoir, drain it, clean the tank and valve assembly, replace the O ring tank seal and re-assemble. Probably has a bunch of crud in the valve as there is little that could happen to it short of someone tampering with it. Most of the time the operating lever got bent and out of whack (a technical term grin )from backing into freight docks and that caused the directional valve to be out of adjustment. Replace the rods, crossshaft, add or replace turnbuckle and lock nuts and put it back together. Make sure it operates free and easy but also be sure the handle weight doesn't cause the button to start the motor by itself. The solenoids are subject to corrosion and while they look like F*^d style they are a continuous duty solenoid that you can get at most truck equipment shops. The Monarch units are simple, dependable and remain the industry standard for power packs. Also replace the old push button starter switch while your at it and maybe the battery cables too. Use 2ga cable at a minimum. What I've described here is obviously a single acting unit but double acting is also a possibility albeit a somewhat more remote likelehood as SA was the rule back in the day yours was built. Same deal if manual valve only a 4 way valve in lieu of 3 way. Other brands less likely but quite similar in concept and design. Even less likely is that it is an electrically operated valve and then the solenoid cartridge valves get gummed up. OH, and yes you can suction the old oil out the fill cap hole if you wish. That about does it unless you want a model number and I'd guess it's an M500xx something or other, built in both vertical and horizontal styles. Good Luck.

One last thing and it's a biggy: be darn sure the safety catches on this thing will hold the weight of the gate safely in place when in it's stored position. If one of these things falls on you then all anyone will find is a greasy spot where it happened. Most critical if your gate is a conventional style and stores in the upright position. VERY important.


1953 Chevy 5-window 3100
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Dave
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If you can't make seventy by an easy road, don't go. ~~ Mark Twain
#152811 05/20/2007 9:59 PM
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I knew that you could help him out Dave.


The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Grant from Roy, Washington
1956 6100 Chevy Dump Truck in the Gallery
1964 GMC Drump Truck in the Gallery
user
http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/56Taskforce/slideshow/
#152812 05/21/2007 12:14 AM
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Dave
Thanks, From what I was told by the previous and 2nd owner the truck was originally owned by a vending machine dealer so the tailgate would be as old as you say. The pump does not seem to have a valve as you described only the globe valve and electric switch as seen in 2nd photo. The solenoid is under the hood and power is turned on by a key switch on the dash. I need to look at this a little more,get some fresh fluid in there and maybe add a valve like you described. I attached 2 photos of the pump
Ed
pump pics

#152813 05/21/2007 4:54 PM
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oldgmc: To bad you didn't post the pictur first, it would have saved a lot of wear and tear on my keyboard. wink

It still appears to be a Monarch but I'm intrigued by it not having any internal valving so it must have gone to a sperate directional valve. Does this thing have twin cylinders? Reason I ask it that the return line with the ball valve has a tee in it. I assume this allows for the return from two cylinders. Frankly I'd say it is basically unserviceable with this setup and even dangerous. Ball valves aren't made to hold the kind of pressure even an old pump could produce. Maybe you ought to think about replacing it with a newer unit if you intend to use it.


1953 Chevy 5-window 3100
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Picturetrail

Dave
Engine & Driveline Moderator

If you can't make seventy by an easy road, don't go. ~~ Mark Twain
#152814 05/21/2007 5:58 PM
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Dave is right if I were you I would replace the pump valve and tank assembly. start by removing the one you have and all its plumbing get a new one with a three position valve (raise/holed/lower)as Dave stated above. Mount it how and where you want it and then have some hoses made with the appropriate fittings to plumb it to the cylinder/cylinders.-4 three wire hose should work for you be prepared fitting prices can be a little shocking.


The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Grant from Roy, Washington
1956 6100 Chevy Dump Truck in the Gallery
1964 GMC Drump Truck in the Gallery
user
http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/56Taskforce/slideshow/
#152815 05/21/2007 8:21 PM
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Shop Shark
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Hoses are expensive if you go to the J-D or NAPA dealer and have them made but if you go on-line or to a discount farm supply they are really not expensive at all.


1953 Chevy 5-window 3100
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Picturetrail

Dave
Engine & Driveline Moderator

If you can't make seventy by an easy road, don't go. ~~ Mark Twain
#152816 05/21/2007 11:01 PM
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It has 2 cylinders one on each side. I did not like the way the set up looked which is why I asked the original question so I am looking to make it work correctly. I will look for a 3 position valve and some new hoses as suggested.
HevyHauler you suggested replacing the tank could I just clean and service it as Dave suggested in the 1st post or do I need a completly different motor/pump setup to make this work
Ed

#152817 05/22/2007 10:08 PM
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The tank is not the problem. Replace the unit entirely or remove the gate if you don't have a use for it.

What you have described is a conventional type gate (stands upright when in stored position)that uses two cylinders to lift it and 2 more to close it. So if you replace the power unit it will need a pump with 2 - 3 way valves or one 3 way and one 4 way if it is power lowering also. A very expensive unit. I'd forget it. If you really need a liftgate then you'd be better off to buy a new one of the style you want.


1953 Chevy 5-window 3100
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Picturetrail

Dave
Engine & Driveline Moderator

If you can't make seventy by an easy road, don't go. ~~ Mark Twain
#152818 05/23/2007 2:52 PM
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I need to look at this and learn something about hydraulics before I get involved with this but at least your information gave me a idea what to look for thanks


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