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| | | | Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 73 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 73 | I have a '54 3100 that I’ll be installing the running boards soon. I’m doing a full restoration on the truck. I was wondering if anyone puts some type of an isolator between the bottom of the running boards and the top of the brackets they mount to? I don’t think they had anything there originally. Maybe over thinking. Just easier to do something now than later. Thanks.
Adam
Last edited by Peggy M; 10/31/2023 2:21 AM.
Adam
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 1,289 Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum | | Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 1,289 | The running boards did not have anti squeak or other material between the running boards and the mounts. Things to consider - you need to be able to adjust the running boards laterally when you install them. The bolt holes in the running board at the rear need to line up with holes in the rear fender. The splash apron height / clearance to the bedside would be affected by putting anything under the running boards. Its also likely that adding material would allow water/ moisture to get trapped and set up the potential for corrosion. The original design has withstood the test of time.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel." | | | | | Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 73 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 73 | Thanks for the comments. I can see how it could possibly throw off the mounting to the fender and filler panel alignment. I was thinking something fairly thin and at this point I need to mount all those components so I do have some adjustment there now. As far as moisture mine did have a little rust in those spots but not to bad. The big moisture area was where the running boards met the fenders. Those areas on mine were shot both sides and I think that’s pretty common. That’s an area where the original design I think was flawed. But then again I’m sure GM wasn’t planning on a bunch of guys 75 years later wanting to restore these trucks.
Adam
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 6,770 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 6,770 | I'm sure your truck isn't going to see anywhere near the kind of use it did when it was new. The likelihood of rust in any of the areas mentioned is slim to none.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | Anything which you put there will hold water and may cause more trouble down the road than without it.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,307 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,307 | A thin piece of Teflon is what I used on mine just so it was not metal on metal ,might help with squeaks as well .I had thin rubber there before that lasted but I don’t think there was anything there from when new. | | |
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