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I believe I'm ready to go. Excited

Might as well come install mine when you’re done!

What did you do for a driveshaft there? Have one built?

Driveshaft is from another 50s truck with open drive line. Will have to be shortened but have a local guy on call to do it. Conversion joint in front for t5 to 50 shaft. Middle joint is replacement joint for 50.

If you're having the driveshaft shortened, you can have your guy install a yoke that matches the T5 yoke so you don't have to hunt down a conversion joint if/when it needs replacement.

I have the same joint at rearend so no biggie. Common joint on the shelf at flaps

breezy,

Is this going in a 3600 (3/4 ton)???

You don't have a signature line and didn't say what your working on. So just making a guess.

Yes/No/Maybe So???

Dan

EDIT: Asked as a 3100 can get a way with a 1-piece driveshaft, although a 3200 with 2-piece driveshaft could go the same route as your pictured parts.

Started life as a 3600. Now it's a 5/8 ton maybe. Lol

Here we go!!

And where out.

And were back in.

Marathon Man!

Was going good tell the carrier bearing bolt holes won't line up and has to drop down 1 1/4". But I'm on it.

Carrier bearing problem solved. But with a question.
Option 1 made a spacer and bolted generic GM carrier bearing to it.
Option 2 found what could be considered the correct carrier bearing but haven't a clue what it's from. I took it from a 63 c60. But everything I look up for that doesn't show that setup?
So anyone know what it's from? Thanks

breezy,

Any stamped numbers on it anywhere???

No numbers

Too bad about no numbers.

Just a note that the size and spacing looks good for what your doing, but the lack of that rubber flex support may lead to some pretty serious vibrations and possibly early wear out of the u-joints???

Just thinking out loud here.

It has rubber around the bearing and is actually greasable..
Truck has the same thing now just with enclosed drive shaft. So it should be fine. No problems now.

breezy,

Below are some pics taken from a 1966 Chevrolet Special Parts and Illustration Book I have that show the 2 different carrier bearing setups you show.

Your 1st pic seems to match up with the common 3/4 Ton carrier bearing (with the rubber insert) design in my 1st pic.

Your 2nd pic seems to match up with the larger truck (1 Ton through 2 Ton) carrier bearing design which my book says was used for the 1941-54 and later year large truck 2 and 3 piece driveshafts.

Offered to help ID what you found and hopefully clear up any mystery about the 2nd carrier bearing unit.

Dan

EDIT: Glad to hear what you found will work out for you!

Thanks Dan. That helps a lot. Guess they don't make them that way anymore. Have to adapt like I already did. I'm going to use the ole original one. Still good after all these years. Probably last longer than the replacement.

Nice progress.

Should be rolling tomorrow. Waiting for buddy at machine shop to cut drive shaft down. Lugnutz how much fluid this trans hold?

Does the carrier bearing not line up because the T5 is longer? The added length plus the piniom angle makes it offset? Or is there something else going on?

Original carrier bearing was fine. Problem was it was attached to a closed drive line
So I had to come up with a replacement for the open drive line.
I didn't want to destroy the closed drive line trying to remove carrier since I wasn't sure how it came apart.
But an FYI you can't buy a replacement carrier in original form that's why I made the adapter piece. Hope that answers your question.

The adapter that you made will work just fine. I've done that on 4 different 3/4 ton trucks already with no issues

Oh I'm confident it will. But I found that original one and cleaned it up. It's greasable also. So until it fails I'll run it
Thanks

Should take just under 3 quarts. Fill it until it is level with (and runs out of) the fill hole on the side. Use Dex/MERC ATF.

Thanks

Getting really close now.

Well it's done. First trip out went well. No shakes. Shifted fine. Overdrive not the greatest. Not enough power and to high rearend ratio. 2.73. .073 overdrive. .086 would be much better. But did get to 67 mph. So speed is there. Time for 3.08 gears I would say. That should get me what I'm looking for. But overall it's great. Forgot how sloppy these s10 shifters were. Have to address that also. Thanks for all the advice and help. Special thanks to lugnutz for even going as far as a phone call. Great guy there!!!

Side note. Without floor pan cover it's a hot sum itch.

Good job! .86 5th gear with 3.07 or 3.08 is a good option. Don't know which gear ratio chain you have but the chain beginning with 4.03 and a 3.07 rear will let you use your pickup as a real genuine 1/2 ton truck and still drive on the highway at around 2100 rpm.

Need to just put the 235 in. Maybe this winter. But probably still need some gears. Thanks

Calling it a day. Not a beautiful piece of work but will keep the critters out until I get the correct cover.

Mine ain’t buttoned down either.

How it happened but my after-market shift lever broke off. I had to have it welded back on. It was welded to the factory cover plate. Mine has a 2.73 Nova rear axle. 5 the gear and 65 mph barely over 2100 rpm. BTW 15 inch tires.

Maybe 15” wheels, but what tire diameter?

Did the same with mine. I have .72 5th gear. The factory 4.56 at 70 mph It is turning 2500 with 16 inch wheels . The little 216 surprises me everyday. Not sure on tire size. I did away with center bearing and had one piece shaft made from transmission to rear with same joints on both ends. Best improvement yet.

I'm loving it. 3.08 gear would be better but having a synchronized transmission is really a great improvement. Got the shifter made today. What a crap feast that was. Got it done but it would be nice if you could buy some decent dies these days. Irwin sucks. Snap no better. I think I could have chewed better threads.

0.76 and a 3.90 with 28.66" tires make a good combination with my 216. Best modification I've done on the truck so far.