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| | | Forums66 Topics128,035 Posts1,055,446 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 63 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 63 | Finally got the axle plates aka: "U-bolt plates", & new U-bolts made for the 1967 C-50 Dump Truck. I need to replace the axle plate & u-bolts on the driver's side of the rear axle. 2 speed vaccum operated Timkin-Rockwell 5,000 lb rear axle. I need advice on how to do this job without killing myself. Would it be safe to chock all the wheels on both sides, then w/ truck in 1st gear, & propeller shaft emergency brake on; crawl under there, cut the u-bolts, drop the axle plate, then replace w/ new axle plate & u-bolts? Thanx. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 66 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 66 | Don, I do a fair amount of work on old stuff (2 '48 two ton dumps, tractors etc.) I'm also saftey officer for the town F.D...by way of saying that the cardinal rule is ask yourself what is the absolute worse thing that could happen, and assume it will. BLOCKING! Get yourself some 4' 8X8's or some rugged jack stands, the heavy duty kind, and crib the frame. Rig it so that the tires/wheels aren't what you are depending on the hold the truck up and stable when you crawl underneath. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 9 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 9 | I'm a heavy truck mechanic, so i do this all the time. Personally i'd just chock the wheel so the axle doesnt move any mainly, then just get under there and cut the u-bolts, take the plate off, put new ones on and tighten it all up. Easy job, no need to jack anything up. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | I would chock the front wheels, push in the clutch to be sure there wasn't any torque or bind on the rear wheels and have some jack stands under the frame "just in case". Then redo one side at a time, Scott | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I never work on anything in a situation where safety is compromised. That is just the wrong thing to do. I need to understand that it is safe before I start. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 63 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 63 | Rusty, I did it the way you said. Had a lil pressure from jack under the frame for back up though. Must confess I was nervous as hell when cutting through that last u-bolt.
48bigtrucks, I also chocked the front wheels, put trans in neutral, & pushed in the clutch a few times too.
Thank you to all on this thread.
CFFC Don | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 9 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 9 | Must confess I was nervous as hell when cutting through that last u-bolt. [/QB] Well you're right to be nervous, not how tight your u-bolts were, but on a big 3/4" u-bolt on a class 8 truck that someone put on with an 3/4" impact gun, when you cut those things off it sounds like a shotgun when they let go... | | |
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