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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 183
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'Bolter
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I just spent about 3 months trying to buy a tube of the 3M 08509 bedding and glazing compound from two different sources. The NAPA guy just told me it is no longer available . Does anyone know if 3M makes a replacement product? When I look at their website for windshield adhesives, 08509 is still listed. But you can’t buy it from the website. Does anyone know if someone else makes a non hardening sealant? Or someplace that still has some3M 08509 in stock? I’m trying to fix some leaks around the recently reinstalled windshield on my 1952 Chevy 3100 (using a new gasket from Steele Rubber Products).


My dad always told me, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer".
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M
'Bolter
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try the strip caulk, 08578. Roll it into a small rope and insert between the glass and seal.

Joined: May 2003
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B
'Bolter
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I just received an email from 3M customer support. The 08509 has been discontinued. I’m going to try this product that I found on Amazon:
C.R. Laurence CRL7708 CRL Windshield and Body Sealant. It sounds like a similar product and people seem to be using it successfully to stop windshield leaks on older cars.


My dad always told me, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer".
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O
'Bolter
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Did 3M not recommend a substitute product?


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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'Bolter
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I asked them that, and they did not have a suggested replacement.


My dad always told me, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer".
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B
'Bolter
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I wanted to give an update on the CRL7708 CRL Windshield and Body Sealant. I bought a tube on Amazon and used the whole tube on the lower third of the windshield. Since it supposedly never hardens I stuck the tip between the gasket and the glass (after masking off above and below the gasket). It was incredibly messy just as several posters had mentioned with the 3M product. Of course once I did this it didn’t rain for about a month. Finally last week we got a little rain and my windshield didn’t leak! Only time will tell if it holds up.


My dad always told me, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer".
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Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator)
Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator)
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Thanks for the update. It is great to hear that a replacment is available.

Might I suggest you add that solution to your initial post as an edit so it will be easy to see in future searches?


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Moderator, Electrical Bay
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I realize there's little about this in the way of instructions at the site here. I've been meaning to write a tech tip but other things have gotten in the way plus it has been too hot. This really isn't what most people use between the glass and the rubber but I suppose you could. It mostly is used between the cab and the rubber and you'd shoot in a bead of between 1/4 and 3/8". That's where water will be harbored and what will rust. Also there is movement between the cab and the rubber but not generally between the rubber and glass. Usually a urethane sealer is used between the glass and the rubber and you won't need much of that at all...certainly not a whole tube on one windshield. The rubber should already fit pretty tightly against the glass once the windshield is in place. From what I would guess 3M is not making the product due to lack of demand.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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Earlier this summer I did a pretty thorough job of caulking around the recently installed new Steele Rubber Products gasket and the body because it seemed like there was a gap there that water might be coming in. I may not have used the best product for a lasting seal but it hasn’t been long enough for it to fail. And my windshield was still leaking in the same spots (the lower corners where water sits between the gasket and the glass). So I was pretty sure that’s where my leak was. It could be that the guy who reinstalled my windshield using the old glass didn’t do a good enough job of cleaning the edges of the glass.


My dad always told me, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer".
Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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I managed to find an obscure website that had 3M 8509 for a good price and free shipping. I ordered a tube (I assumed old stock,) but have yet to see it arrive. I recall getting an order confirmation, but can't find that now in my inbox. Maybe it was a scam all along, as 3M doesn't list it. frown
[on edit] I found the order confirmation by text and they had a shipping status link there. Checking that says as of Oct 6, "Awaiting vessel confirmation. We are coordinating with our shipping partners to secure a spot for your order. This might take 3-4 days."
Maybe it's coming from overseas and they're trying to get that one tube into a container ship coming from some foreign port or maybe from Florida through the Panama canal. Fortunately, I'm not in a hurry to get my windshield installed. ohwell

Last edited by klhansen; 10/08/2023 10:44 PM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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The site wasn't Aspiana was it, Kevin? They've been listing that product for a while under two or three different prices...all the way from $8.50 per tube (which is less than I've ever paid) to $21.50 or so. They're out of Jupiter, FL and I don't know anything about them.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
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Originally Posted by Jon G
The site wasn't Aspiana was it, Kevin? They've been listing that product for a while under two or three different prices...all the way from $8.50 per tube (which is less than I've ever paid) to $21.50 or so. They're out of Jupiter, FL and I don't know anything about them.
The vendor on the charge was listed as BCHUB. Cost was $17.50. If it never shows up it won't break me, anyway.
I saw that Aspiana listing, but I don't think it was them. Must be overseas as the tracking link now says "Container booked. Your order has been securely packed and is ready for sea transport." Who knows when it might arrive. You'd think that someone in the US would ship via one of the three common carriers, FedEx, UPS or USPS. But maybe it has to go surface because it's "hazardous".


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
Update: It was a scam. Shortly afterward, I saw a credit card charge that I didn't make. Had to dispute that and go through the hassle of changing my credit card number on everything. frown
So what was said above is true, 3M 08509 is no longer available. So if you order something and get a text message acknowledging your order and giving you a link for tracking that looks like this: "https://trackingdvf.com/########", call your credit card company immediately. It looked fishy initially, and I should have followed my instincts. dang


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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Kevin, thanks for letting us know. I hadn't ordered anything but back in June I had a charge from "beachbody" in Ca. Had to go through same process and get new card. It was my 1st time ever being hacked. Its rare I use my card and never order on line. I use the toll free number. The fraud division said they just got lucky with the number combination. They ran a charge for $1 and when it "takes" they immediately come back with a larger charge. Glad you caught it when you did.


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Originally Posted by klhansen
Update: It was a scam. Shortly afterward, I saw a credit card charge that I didn't make. Had to dispute that and go through the hassle of changing my credit card number on everything. frown
So what was said above is true, 3M 08509 is no longer available. So if you order something and get a text message acknowledging your order and giving you a link for tracking that looks like this: "https://trackingdvf.com/########", call your credit card company immediately. It looked fishy initially, and I should have followed my instincts. dang

So, it looks like the CRL will be the sealant you use. You might consider getting some Dinitrol Glass Replacement cleaner. It works really well to clean up the CRL 7708. That stuff is "runny", for sure. We put the sealant only in the glass channel of the windshield seal. Plan to follow up with masking and applying to the "bead area" when the weather warms up 4 months from now.
Attachments
IMG-5699.jpg (210.65 KB, 53 downloads)
CRL & 3M
IMG-5700.jpg (217.5 KB, 53 downloads)
CRL & 3M 2nd
IMG-5697.jpg (202.38 KB, 53 downloads)
Dinitrol cleaner


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
Thanks Ron, I have some of the CRL stuff on the way. Ordered from a reputable source. I saw what looks like a Steele sticker on your tube of 3m 08509. I assume you bought that before it went away. How do the two products compare? I'll check into that cleaner stuff as well. I was hoping to install glass over Christmas when my Daughter and Son in law were here, but didn't have the right stuff. I suppose I could have just installed the glass, as the sealant goes in afterward. Seems I'm almost always waiting on something to arrive to work on the truck.

Alvin, a number of years back I saw charges for skateboards and hooker clothes - something a 60+ year old wouldn't be buying, and reported them. I think that time a waiter at a restaurant copied the numbers from my card, but can't prove it. Sure wish people were more honest.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,291
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
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Posts: 1,291
Kevin , I used the 3M stuff once and I'm thinking it was much "thicker" . Yes,I bought it from Steel when I purchased the windshield seal. I'm hoping that the runny nature of the CRL will allow it to creep into the area's required and fix the leak issue. I note that the FAM Sect. 14 , Sheet 5.00 has some sealing instructions ....but I could not figure out how to make #2 happen without creating a big mess when roping in the windshield seal. I've had two different installers install my windshield and it was not painless as I had to help the second guy.....Let us know how it goes.


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
I noticed that the FAM page you referenced has two different sealing materials called out, GM 3686628 around the glass and GM 3710409 between the seal and the body sheet metal. It would be interesting to know the equivalent for those GM part numbers. Also, the FAM stuff would be for 54 trucks with the one-piece windshield, which is what you have. I have the 2 piece windshield of course. I've read thru the instructions in the service manual, which only calls for 3M "Weatherstrip Adhesive" whatever that might be. I also have some 3M Urethane Windshield Sealant, which the local glass place uses. I'll have all the options open to me. I will post what happens when I get to that part.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

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