What sequence do these “extra pieces” go on? Are they even necessary? I think I still have one (or 2?) still on the shaft.. does it need to be replaced?
Gelalfett , can you please verify Model and year truck you are working on. Pics of what you've removed would also be helpful. Using the picture you provided, leave that deflector on the shaft. Then install one of the grease retainers big face out towards bearing, then the carrier bearing then another grease retainer big face in towards bearing and finally the dust shield small side first.
Last edited by Gdads51; 08/13/20233:32 AM. Reason: spelling
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604 In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
For the record… the factory manual I got is trash 😾
The FAM is not a replacement for the Shop Manual. If you are working on a 1959 truck, you'll need the 1955 shop manual along with the 56, 57, 58 and 1959 Supplements, they didn't rewrite the complete manuals for 56 thru 59, they just added any new items into that years supplement.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
All of the shop manuals and supplements Mike B mentioned (except for the 1957 & 1958 Supplements) are available to peruse and use for free at The Old Car Manual Project as well as a whole bunch of other fantastic resources that are just a few clicks away. The parts manuals can also be a big help as they often contain exploded diagrams that better display how components like your carrier bearing setup go together.
I use the site many times a day and find it easy and very useful.
On a related note, it would help everyone reading/responding to your posts if you would either include the specifics of the truck your are working on (make/model/year at least) in the post itself, or you could add a "signature line" like many of us use that provides details about your truck so you don't have to constantly type in that info.
Just a suggestion that will help you and us.
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
When you pull stuff like that apart, you should lay each piece in line on the table in order of removal so you can see how it all stacks up when it's time to reassemble it.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
This is what i took off 🤷ðŸ»â€â™€ï¸ 59 3E 3600
Using an angle grinder and cutoff wheel like that, unless you were REAL CAREFUL, you likely damaged the shaft (hopefully not enough to destroy it.) The proper way to remove a carrier bearing is to use a puller or shop press. The re-assembly process is covered on the 55 2nd series Shop Manual on page 4-67. Link
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Well that was fun (not really) The secret weapon for seating that bearing seems to be a random pipe with a 1 3/8 id & 1 29/32ish od (if anyone ever asks)
