The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Hardware ?

So, my 59 Apache “project truck” was partially disabled when I got it… long story short… the hogs head that was in the cab is an eaton HO52.
I’m ready to put it on the rear end where it’s supposed to be… but there’s no fasteners = i can find cover bolts galore… but i need the ones for the other side.

So, questions… by chance anyone know the bolt sizes for the hogs head? And/or what’s the common name for that drop out so I can google search those bolts? Differential case/housing?

How about a picture of what you have?

Based on the description, I think the "third member" is the term you are looking for.

Which bolts do you want? The ones to attach that to the pumpkin?

I’m at work.. i’ll take pics when i get home

I need the bolts that hold the diff assembly (3rd member?) onto the axle housing (rear end?)

Bolts to attach “this thing” to “that thing”

P.s. maybe it’s an h072 because of this “do hickie”? Tfdik

Take one of the bolts out of the rear cover and see if it will thread into the front "pig" bolt holes. If it's the same thread then you will need to determine the correct length needed. From there it's as simple as going to your local hardware store or good auto parts where you can find the fasteners. Grade 5 should be sufficient.

The HO52 also has the ring gear thrust pad adjustment feature.

They are 3/8 in. bolts coarse thread (uss). Measure the thickness of the third member where the bolts go through. & add 1 in. for the total length. Get some split ring lock washers to go with them. They are available at any hardware or farm store. Grade 5 will work but I prefer grade 8.

George

I'd go to Fastenal and get some 3/8" studs. That gives the carrier housing something to align with as it's installed into the banjo housing. It also keeps the gasket in the proper position. They're 3/8-16 on the end that threads into the housing, and 3/8-24 (fine thread) for the nuts that hold the housing on. Use a stud about 1 1/4" or maybe 1 1/2" long. Use a drop of blue Loctite on the banjo housing end of the studs and they'll be there 3 days past forever.
Jerry

May I ask here, is it possible that the housing was originally set up with studs pressed in from behind? I don't have a truck parts book handy but that set up looks like any other removable third member (55-64 chevy pass car, ford 9 inch, Chrysler 8 3/4) and they all had designated types of studs that pressed in from the back that assisted in getting the third member to slid in straight.

Good call- - - -even with the picture enlarged several steps, it's impossible to see if the holes are threaded. Those splined studs might be a little difficult to acquire, so a possible work-around would be a 2-diameter stud- - - -7/16-20 on the banjo housing side, and 3/8-24 through the carrier, then tap the holes in the housing to the larger thread.
Jerry

This tech tip might help you: https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/axles/1%20Ton%20Upgrade/

There has to be a reason that someone took it all apart. Perhaps one was bad and this is a replacement. It's likely impossible
to know unless the previous owner said something. I would check it out and see if there is some obvious problem with it.
Possibly take to a shop that works on differentials to check it out. It's a lot of work to install it and the axles and then find
out it has a problem and have to do it all over again,
Fred

Lol omg I did that like 2 weeks ago… fella said he knows nothing about it and got super mad when i asked him of that crack pipe i found in the bed rail was stock or aftermarket

So yeah, buying off of Facebook marketplace is sketchy



Anywho’s.. thanks y’all… stud bolts are ordered