The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop She's a getting hot now?

Went out on a ride yesterday to look at some lakes.Just before I got there I could smell antifreeze. I pulled over and you could here my 235' boiling over, so I got out of the truck lifted up the hood to see. I waited about 20 min. before opening the cap and looked in there real gently to see no water in there luckily I always carry some with me, I checked the water and oil before I left the house. Now check this out, there are no leaks anywhere, and the time it was really getting hot there was no indication on my water temp. gauge showing it hot at all and I know the gauge is good. What do think, heat riser?

I think you overfilled the radiator and that the truck's cooling system was just finding it's correct level.

When cold, the coolant should just barely cover the radiator tubes.

Is your cooling system a zero pressure system?

My truck had a coolant recovery reservoir on it when I got it. I like it because I can fill the radiator to the very top and coolant doesn't spill on the ground during normal operation.

The reservoir rises about two inches when hot, and goes back down as the engine cools off. The truck operates at a steady 180 and has a 4 lb pressure cap.

Bad head gasket will let water into the combustion chamber, you won't see any leak, but the coolant will go down. How did it do on the way home? Does the exhaust smell SWEET ?

How many miles did you drive before you had to pull over?
How much water did you have to add to top off the radiator?

I think you’re probably right.

One oddity of my cooling system, and it seems repeatable over multiple, intentional, over-fillings: It’s happy level is slightly ~below~ the top layer of tubes. I have a homemade puke tank and the puke tank has an outlet once it fills completely.

Well got a chance to look into my heating problem and checked the thermostat to be the culprit. Disconnected the lower radiator hose and sprayed some high pressure water in there to see if there was any gunk in there, not really much at all. Now looking at the thermostat and it is a 160 degree, I thought it should have been a 180, the truck is running about 140 without a thermostat until I bye one. What you Bolters take on running the 235' without a thermostat for the time being just around town? It does seemed to be running cooler.

I wouldn’t run without a thermostat.

I'd heard on some earlier threads about drilling a 1/8" hole in your thermostat to help your water flow better?

Ol 55 The hole is to let air get away from the "pellett" so the thermostat can open for flow.

Running without a t-stat can cause the engine to overheat as the coolant is passing through the radiator to fast to effectively remove the heat...the t-stat is also a flow restrictor.

Having a 160* t-stat in your truck won't cause it to overheat, that's just the temperature that it opens...once your engine comes up to operating temperature it never goes back down until it's turned off (unless your running in a really cold climate like Alaska).

Mike B

Iam actually looking for the upper and lower hose part #'s that are pre bent not the straight then you bend them to fit. Auto parts stores around here don't know or how to even get the pre bent ones. Thanks.

Rock Auto has the pre-bent ones for $13 each

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1955,truck,3.8l+235cid+l6,1326361,cooling+system,radiator+hose,10068

Is your truck an AD or TF?

Stock as Rock 55' chevrolet 3100 235' 6 cylinder.

Yes, but is it a first series Advance Design truck, or is it a second series Task Force truck?

2nd series truck.

OK. RockAuto just has the upper radiator hose for the '55 2nd series and both hoses for the 1st series.

Have used the flex hoses without any problem but they have the spiral wire in them, many years. A good parts man should be able to hook you up locally.

Ol'55,
Have you tried the Napa off 10th west & M4?
They got me a lot of parts (good) for my 1950 3100 and the engine 1957 235.
They did me solid .
Todd