Doug, should be an engine serial number on the little pad behind the distributor. It'll date the block, but the head could be from another engine/year.
Probably the best identifiers for figuring out just what engine you have boils down to 2 primary things.
1st is the Serial# stamped into the block. Check out this resource which provides info on where to find your serial number and help breaking down what the stamped numbers mean.
2nd part needed is to find and verify your "block" casting code and date info. Check out this resource link with pictures for help on that.
The pictures you posted above show the "head" casting info, which helps identfy that part, but not the basic engine block details.
Get some pictures of your block info and post them here so we can offer more help if you can't determine them from the links provided.
Dan
Last edited by Gdads51; 06/19/202310:18 PM. Reason: spelling
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
It sounds like you've got a "replacement" block, one that a Chevy parts department sold to be used during an overhaul. The casting number down close to the fuel pump will give you an idea of the engine's age and basic application, but casting numbers usually span several years of production. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I’m not going to remove the starter to get to the casting date. There are no other numbers on that side of the block. I’ll get my mirror out to make sure I didn’t miss anything hidden behind the distributor or fuel pump.
I double checked with a mirror and nothing.
Last edited by T-Doug; 06/20/20231:19 AM.
1954 Chevy 3100 One problem solved doesn’t seem to shorten the list Montgomery, AL In Project Journals
There are numbers/letters on that pad in your picture. They are partially visible if you use the magnifying button when viewing your picture. You just need to do some more cleanup of that pad, probably with a wire brush, to clear the heavy layers of paint and old grime buildup to bring them into the light of day.
Your block casting code, assuming you have a '54 235 engine, will be just above the oil pan mounting flange rail between the front of the engine block and the fuel pump mounting location (see attached screenshot). Those will also probably be heavily obstructed with old grime and paint, which a wire brush will expose.
Dan
PS - The engine block date casting codes are visible just above your starter if you get the angle just right. No need to remove the starter.
Last edited by Gdads51; 06/20/20232:13 AM.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I'm seeing a 6 (or maybe 5), a 3, a 5, maybe a 2, and an X in your picture. Get a wire brush and clean it up some more. Lighting it from the side also helps you read the stamped numbers. [on edit] on second look, that 2 looks like a 4, and a 54X indicates a 54 235 engine originally installed in a 3100. If you find an F in front of the 5, that would indicate it came from the Flint plant, and a T would indicate the Tonawanda Plant.
The casting number should be under the fuel pump and just above the pan gasket. Not that hard to find.
[on edit] Dan beat me to the punch while I was out double checking on my 216 (which is what your 54 should have if original) Nope 54's had a 235.
Last edited by klhansen; 06/20/20232:33 AM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If you blow up your picture, you can clearly see numbers and letters stamped on that pad. Clean it with a wire brush as Kevin suggested and it may clear it it.
Last edited by Phak1; 06/21/202312:04 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Use a wire brush or sandpaper on the pad, then rub it with welder's chalk or white soap. The numbers will pop up pretty clearly. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
This looks a lot better. The one above the starter I could only kind of make out the last 3 and it looked like N30. Still can’t find the one up forward.
1954 Chevy 3100 One problem solved doesn’t seem to shorten the list Montgomery, AL In Project Journals
Yep, pretty clear. That's a 54 engine originally installed in a 3100, built in the Flint plant.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.