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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,997
S
Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator
Big Bolt Forum Co-moderator
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,997
Cleaning up the interior of my 1948 cab. Looks like at one time there was some sort of waffle material attached some how to the interior roof surface. Just curious, but was it some sort of paper product adhered to the roof. I am thinking to putting sound and heat mat on there, then the headliner. Should I just prime the surface and then put the mat on, or is the mat better on bare metal?


A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin
When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired.

1948 Chevy 2-Ton
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,965
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,965
The mat is only going to stay in place as long as whatever paint you put on. If the paint/primer peels off, so will the mat.

I'd prime the ceiling with a rust converter and then install the hushmat/dynamat/laundromat


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,180
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,180
Originally Posted by Otto Skorzeny
I'd prime the ceiling with a rust converter and then install the hushmat/dynamat/laundromat
No, No. Laundromat FIRST, so the paint sticks. wink


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,207
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
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Prime with epoxy primer and use spray on adhesive to stick on the insulation. For insulation, I just used the foil backed stuff you can get at the hardware store. Of course, it's hidden by the headliner.

I wouldn't leave any metal bare in our climate. The epoxy primer seals out the condensation. Lesser primers can absorb water.

The 3M spray on adhesive is good. I stuck Dynamat insulation under the hood with it and it is not coming off.


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: Mar 2014
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
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Most of that was a mix of jute, paper fiber, in some cases horsehair, tar and linseed oil all soaked in some funny-smelling solvent. It was then run through big rollers and let to dry. When I was a boy I got to tour one of the plants making it.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2001
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All I know without it gets extremely hot. Mine was off for one summer until I had an upholstery shop fabricate one for me. Mine has a very stiff material for a base then a vinyl cover with a very large outline of the chevy emblem embossed into it. BTW I made a big mistake of touching the inside of the roof.


Ron, The Computer Greek
I love therefore I am.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
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