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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Nov 2021 Posts: 1,258 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2021 Posts: 1,258 | After blast and prime I have some rust showing between the layers of metal. There is no way to get in there and no way to stop it from pushing out. I am wondering if I can pour some of the rust converter in there and let it seep in-between the layers of metal?
Then come back and prime paint and caulk it. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,052 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,052 | That's worth a try if you can get the stuff to stay in there long enough to work on the rust. Maybe some modeling clay or painters putty dams in the drip rail.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,275 | Drill out the spotwelds and remove the drip rails and have them blasted. The holes left by drilling out the spotwelds will greatly aid reassembly location. Or you can do what I did and remove them and don't put them back on. Makes for a very smooth look.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2021 Posts: 1,258 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2021 Posts: 1,258 | I signed on for a lot of work on this truck, but removing the drip rail is a bit more than I am willing to do. Maybe not putting it back?
I already thought of damming it up to allow it time to seep in. Great minds think alike I guess. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 1,289 Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum | | Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 1,289 | Just a quick note, I stripped mine down to bare metal using sanding and wire wheels. Mine were not rusty so that was not an issue for me but what I did do was to use 3M Self leveling seam sealer to level and blend the seam then after cured sanded the contours. Followed up with Epoxy primer then finish coat. The seam sealer worked very well for filling in the imperfections.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel." | | | | | Joined: Mar 2022 Posts: 9 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2022 Posts: 9 | When we used to put in the fast-n-firm 3m seam sealer, we would pour some lacquer thinner in a little cup and dip our finger in it and rub the seam sealer as smooth as glass. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,362 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,362 | I think it depends of what year the truck is that determines how the drip rail is removed and or installed.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
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