The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (55shaker, 1 invisible), 55 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,076
Posts1,055,920
Members48,429
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1474341 11/07/2022 8:14 PM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,101
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,101
I am looking for a recommendation for the lowest amount of effort to prepare my steel wheels for new paint that will still have long lasting results. Strip the current paint, scuff up the current paint? If I need to strip it how? Chemically? Ideally I would take it to have them sand blasted but I really don't want to dismount all my tires. I am only worried about the face. They have good paint on them and are in good condition. I just want to change the color.


Dave from Northern Kentucky
My 54 3100
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,705
W
back yard wrench turner
back yard wrench turner
W Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,705
I would just scuff the good paint and then apply the new primer and paint if they were mine.

Last edited by Wayne67vert; 11/07/2022 8:22 PM.

Wayne
1938 1-Ton Farm Truck
Stovebolt Gallery Forums
1989 Silverado
1996 Mustang GT convertible
When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,101
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,101
Thanks Wayne, by the way, I have stole you tag line and used it a few times. grin


Dave from Northern Kentucky
My 54 3100
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,772
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Online: Content
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,772
Get a pack of playing cards and stick them in the bead between the rubber and the wheel all the way around. Make sure you overlap them slightly. That way you can spray without getting paint on your tire. It's a lot easier than taping. Then just pull the cards out when you're done.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 660
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Online: Content
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 660
Deck of Cards work every time.
Listen to Otto


1950 Chevy 3100
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
B
Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon
B Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
I used to help mask-out cars when I was a kid.

Knock off the wheel weights else there will be a spot underneath when you buy new tires and rebalance. You can also mask the the weights but that is up to the owner.

If the existing paint is good, light sanding with 220 grit on surfaces to be painted.
If there is rust, the rust has to be removed. Sand blast the rust.
Professional auto body paint stripper is caustic and getting nooks and crannies clean is difficult. A hood, door or fender yes but not rims.

Using auto body masking tape on rubber tires is a real pain. The rubber has to be really clean to make the tape (has to be fresh tape) to stick well. It simply peels off otherwise. We used a clean rag with lacquer thinner and wiped up to and sometimes underneath the edge of the rim. Rotate the rag to a clean spot then wipe some more. When clean, let it dry completely. Air hose the edge of the rim. Wipe again if needed. Tape (series of tape segments), then lap the tape slightly below with another row. On top we taped masking paper to completely cover the tire to catch overspray. One pass of the spray gun, no paint, will tell if the masking tape will hold. Back then if you sprayed enamel paint we waited till the next morning to remove the masking. Masking tape in the hot sun will turn to goo.

Remove the masking in the reverse order of installation. The last bit is done slowly. If the paint has bridged well to the tape (no gap or crack) you may have to help with a thin razor blade to separate. Slowly pull down and away from the rim edge, not up or out.


"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,971
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,971
Pressure wash them real good, wipe them down with enamel reducer and wipe them dry again with clean rags (leave it all sit to dry for another 20 minutes), use the playing card trick described above, and paint. If you are taking the tires off...Clean up the bead and inside of the rim with a wire brush if necessary, and do the same for cleaning, then paint. If you want absolutely cleaned and painted, get them blasted, epoxy primer and a paint job.


Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0