The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts C60 engine re-positioning

For some reason I am having a tough time getting the 350 in position. Closer look reveals this truck originally had a six.
The 350 sets way too far back when I use the same mounts. I noticed the engine mt brackets attached to the frame appear to have an other set of holes farther forward on the frame rails.
Is that what these holes are for?
One bracket is bolted on the other rivited.
I see no other way to make this work. I've had the engine in and out six times trying to find the right position. Can't get the hoist balance point right as the hoist hits the firewall while the eng is still too far forward.
Man, You'd think it would be easy with the front clip off.
Input welcome.

Are the engine mounts located straight across from each other? Same distance forward from the firewall?

Can you post some pictures? What year is this truck?

Its a '66.
Yes, the mounts are straight across.
There current location of the mnts puts the carb (TBI in this case) directly under the firewall. Fan would be a ways back from the radiator so, I figured it could come forward.
Digital camera died two weeks ago. Otherwise...

You don't state the year here in post, but would think there must be plenty of C60's with V-8's to look at, or in yards too. Seems like distributor hitting firewall may be problem, is in old pick-ups, but if you're carb is back that far, I think you need to come forward too. Would think if you use bellhousing as guide, align where it bolts to x-member and see where engine is from there. You might be using a newer auto, I guess? Align the bellhouse area with firewall then. I think I would remove old mounts, and move as you said or find correct ones in yard. Think six mounts will be taller, might not work. You could use one of those "Universal" tube mounts that bolt in or weld to frame insides like for rods, but not cheap, and you would have to watch for main X-over clearance maybe. Think you best look at one mounted, compare first. The old mounts with rivets can be ground off, and driven out with punch, then put 3/8" bolts back in there place. Drilling out never worked for me, just grind off with angle grinder. You could torch off, be careful with flames with oil and grease around there!

Hy Coyote, My parts book is very confusing on 66 engine mounting, but illustration of 67-74 V8 mount shows a "U" mount off the front of the engine supported on rubber which is resting on the crossmember, could that be what you need to do your swap?

ITS IN!! Finally.
I had to torch off the rivited mounts, position engine/trannie in place and bolt the 'torched off' mounts in there new location.
They ended up about 6-8" farther forward.
That placed the 350 such that I can easily get to everything. I temporarily mounted the water pump and fan to see if it will interfere with the radiator. It looks as though it may be close. I'll have to re-install the clip to be sure. If so, a flex fan may clear. The transmission dip stick is a bit tight. May have to use a hose slipped over to put the oil in.

It will be interesting to see how she drives with the TBI 350/700R4. The old trannie had roughly a 7:1 ratio first gear and a 1:1 forth. The new 700R4 auto has a 3.07:1 first and a 0.7:1 forth. I very seldom used first in the past as the truck is mainly used around the farm so I think it will have plenty with the short rear end ratio.
It has a two sp rear end. Not sure what the ratio is but hi range is still pretty short.

Next, I need to find a trannie oil cooler for the automatic. I wonder how the ac condensor would work from the donor police car.
Oh yea... driveshaft, shift linkage, speedo gear...
Good thing its just a hobby.

BTW, this truck was used as a stage for two yrs (2000-2001) at a non-profit music festival.
Fortunately, I never had to use the dump feature. Lots of good talent performed on the truck.
Check out www.beanstock.org
Thanks guys,
Dan

seems to me the condensor would work fine. Be sure you locate it out of harms way,and it might be good to install an electric cooling fan to help it at low speeds,and I'd also consider an adjustable fan thermostat. (tramsmissions run quite a lot hotter than engines,so you'd need to be able to adjust the start and shut off temp.)
Speedo gear should be operable,if not accurate,with the speedo cable.
driveshaft you'll have to have built;the truck uses a larger u-joint than the car the tranny's out of,and the length will be different.
You should be able to use an aftermarket floor shifter,you might get lucky and find one in the wrecking yards. They mount to the floor and connect to the tranny with cables,so the installation is pretty easy.If you can score a ratchet type shifter it's easy to either build a tower to mount the shifter on or extend the shift lever to put the control within easy reach.(You might also be able to use a factory GM floor shifter but it might take a lot of mods to work with your application and is harder to change from the stock mounting/tranny location relationship.) On the older stuff I worked on,I used to just braze a piece of 1/4" rod to the shift arm on the tranny,but then,that was not without it's risks and problems.Definitely not recommended.
Speed