The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Install 700r transmission in1965 chevy truck

I'm installing a 700r transmission in my 65 chevy truck. I would like to get information from other people who have done this. Like what crossmember did you use? What angle should be on drive shaft?

I'm 75 years old and a little crippled up from a motorcycle wreck, but I think I could outrun anyone who tries to give me a 700R4. What drivetrain are you running currently? I'd suggest using an angle finder on the driveshaft and duplicating what was there originally. Several websites sell universal crossmembers that can be adjusted to whatever tailshaft position is correct to maintain the right driveline angle. Try either JEGS or Summit for starters.

The throttle valve cable linkage on a 700R4 is nearly impossible to get right, geometry-wise, and even a slight error will cause the transmission to destroy itself in a short time. Good luck!
Jerry

The 700/200 is VERY sensitive to throttle valve cable geometry and adjustment and as Jerry stated very short lived if wrong. Do a search for "TV cable geometry by Art Carr". One degree or 1/8" off is NOT good enough so follow instructions exactly. Driveshaft angle is not as sensitive with two or three degrees pinion angle down for street The easiest and best is to get the ENTIRE factory set up for a 700 trans with the same engine/carb as yours. Year and model of vehicle is not a factor. The driveshaft will have to be shortened and a different yoke on the front. We fab our own cross members but they are offered by many with Chassis Engineering topping the list IMO.

I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. Before selling it I ran a 700R4 in my 52 panel with a small block. Never gave me any problems and shifted great. Drove it all over the country.
....and I have a 700R4 in my 37 pickup with chevy small block. I smoke the tires fairly regular when I have the need for speed and it is a little finicky sometimes but I didn't tell the guy who built it to put the dang shift kit in it either!!! Still, I love the low 1st gear and overdrive....but there are other choices out there. Depends on what you can find....if a 700 be sure its later than an 87 or 88 year model.

Set up properly, they can be very nice. But a lot of people don't realize how precisely the TV cable needs to be installed to make it operate right and survive.

Thanks for helping me out. I took out the aftermarket crossmember and installed one out of the 1973 donor truck, it put my engine and transmission angle at 3 degrees. When I check angle on pinion, it is 7 degrees up. I was thinking it should be close to what my transmission angle is. Not sure. I was planning on taking my truck to a transmission shop and having them set up TV cable cause I'm sure I would mess up. I'm needed a hood latch assembly for this truck also, if anyone knows where I can buy one.

EDITED
I think I have some requests, comments and questions. So we can get this show on the road.
1. Post pic of the crossmember and motor mounts you now are using.
2. How much space between harmonic balance/pulley and the front crossmember.
3. Are you still using the purches with a spacer on top or what? Need some good well lit pics of everything. I see the pics on the other post. What I see is no good. 3 deg down, 7 up? No good.
4. Does this truck have any kind of "drop" or "lift" or non original suspension?
5. Worry about the 700r4 set up later. It's not a big deal and they are a great transmission.
6. Is this a stock differential, if not what is it?
7. I'm curious why you swapped a coil spring control arm front suspension for another coil spring control arm front suspension?
8. It would be very rare to not have to change driveshaft length.

I hope you were not going to mount the trans cross member spaced up on bolts? (your other post).

I think you need to start over with a little help. I advised you way back to mock it up. Not buy parts and lock it up
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...rans-swap-in-1965-chevy.html#Post1338162

John, don't do two posts about the same thing. The members on one don't know what the other member are saying. Continuity is lost. Mixed messages. Repeat discussions, etc.
Does everyone know you have dropped this frame? Do we know what frame it is? Just a 73 front clip on a 65 frame? Did however you dropped the rear, rotate the pinion up too much? You may be better off in the Hi Po shop for this truck. Not sure.
For this forum section, a straight motor/trans swap into a stock 1965 Chevy truck is OK.
Anyway let's see if we can reset if you want to.

Give me a few days on pictures, truck is at shop now having body put on it. I'm using the original motor mount perch now, I put 2 inch lower springs on front and 4 on back, the rear diff is not original, 375 gear, limited slip, I switched front for the disc brake set up, I had a driveshaft made but sure when it's all completed, I'll have to change length

Be sure the "transmission" shop you choose has someone there who is familiar with work other than "remove and replacement" of stock parts. Like any other kinds of hotrodding, combining parts that didn't go together originally opens up a whole can of worms that most flat rate shops neither want to nor know how to deal with. The electronic control version of the 700 is the 4L60E- - - - -same basic gear train, but with electronic shift control instead of a mechanical cable. You'll need a stand-alone computer and a few sensors such as throttle position, manifold vacuum, RPM, etc. but there are dedicated aftermarket control systems to do that.
Jerry

I don't need pics unless you still have some kind of issue after mock up of components and cab. What do you mean by "body"?
Relative to frame, sounds like motor moved up and diff moved up. Should have been about the same angle as stock or flatter.

Body and paint guy is installing cab and front-end body parts, I do not have bed yet, mine was destroyed so looking at buying a anew bed kit.