The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Lokar gas pedal location

I have a 1957 Chevy 1/2 ton with a 1964 Chevy 327 V8 in it. It has a Holley 0-1850C carburetor. I’m installing a Lokar XBSG-6148 gas pedal, and I can’t find any specific location directions from Lokar other than I’ll need to remove the original pedal stop and bracket.

Does anyone have experience with this modification or any pictures or advice regarding the location of the pedal?

Thank you for any ideas.
Larry

Best thing to do with almost any aftermarket pedal, is sit in the seat and put your gas pedal foot in a comfortable operating position. That is where you want to mount your new pedal. Motion your foot through the full range.

Thanks! The seat’s out, but I can easily fix that. Sometimes I can’t see the forest for the trees. This project has so many details; I need a supervisor. Oh wait…here she comes!

Larry

Has anybody here used the Lokar parts that I mentioned. It looks like I might need to fab something to creat a flat spot on the firewall for the cable to pass through. I’m taking pictures so someone else might benefit from this particular project.

Larry

The 57' project truck I am working on has a Lokar gas pedal assembly. The PO mounted it really close to the trans tunnel, it makes it difficult to get a comfortable angle on with your foot. On the engine side it doesn't lineup properly with the carb linkage. I haven't addressed it yet but I'm thinking of moving it. I thought about fabbing up a flat plate/bracket for the inside.

Thanks for checking in. Sounds like we could benefit from sharing some ideas. I’m going to spend some time sitting in the seat as recommended above before I start drilling holes. I’ll post pics when I do that. I’ll be gone for a week so look back here in a couple of weeks if you like.

Larry

Usually, the Lokar cable will give a ton of adaptability.

My Lokar cable needed to come through the firewall where is was not flat. I had to make an angled bracket to hold the cable where it would line up with the carburetor linkage and the inside pedal.


Mark

I cut a piece of stock at the correct angle so it fit firewall and was flat where the linkage went through the hole i drilled in the stock. Worked great until i sold the panel 7 yeats years later. Lokar never gave me a monent problem.

Thanks, everyone for your ideas and experience. I’m on a short trip, but I’ll respond with my results as I get it taken care of.
Larry

I got back to work and decided to go with an Eliminator series pedal XFMG-6098 from Lokar. It mounts on the toe board about where the original pedal went, and the cable attaches to a bracket on the firewall side. Pictures to follow when the part arrives.

I’m still waiting for the Lokar Eliminator pedal. The delivery date just changed to March 3. I want the black one to blend in with my other stock pedals. I’ll post pictures if I ever get the part.
Larry

LAJones48,
Yes, please post some photos. I am thinking about going with a Lokar gas pedal on my 54', and haven't found any good pictures online, yet of people installing Lokar pedals in their AD trucks......assuming you are installing in an AD truck, correct?
Lokar pedals aren't cheap, so I would really like to see one installed in an AD before I make the investment.

--Tom

Hi Tom. My truck is a 1957 Chevy 1/2 ton. I m almost finished with the installation.
, and I’ll be posting pics in the next couple of days. Maybe my pics will give you the general idea of how it goes.
Larry

I finally got the cable and pedal installed and adjusted. Here’s what it looks like. I had to remove the original pedal pivot, the pedal stop, and the seal housing. Otherwise it was pretty simple.
Larry

Larry, I hope you don't mind. I had to reorient your pictures till it made sense to me.

Thanks. I couldn’t get them to stay where they belong. If I click on them, there’s an option to straighten them up, but I can’t seem to save the change.

LAJones48 Seems Like your stock linkage would fit ,maybe need adjustments for your carb hook-up .On the older ones (53 3100) just had to make linkage to fit it,used heim joints made my own adjustable 2x4 linkage aluminum bellcrank original pedal,same way on the clutch .

For a really difficult accelerator linkage that passes through several angles and elevations we use 3/16 brake line steel tubing pre bent to the shape it needs and then run a hood release cable through the tube from pedal to carburetor. No binding even if the tubing is partially kinked and bends are super tight. One has to fab both pedal and carb ends but lasts through at least a million linkage cycles. Single flare the entry and exit ends of the tubing to remove any chance of snagging the cable. Learned this with an articulating forklift we had that everything from the cab to engine passed through the center pivot.

Some very creative problem solving! Good to that American ingenuity is still alive.