This a "while I'm in there post". I'm changing kingpins on my truck. It has less than 60k miles and the tie rod ends that are not "too" bad. But they do just barely touch the wheel weights on the 16" Dexter wheels. If I can come up with new style tie rod ends that will give the necessary wheel clearance I'll just change them out now. I'll also disassemble and clean the originals just to see what I've got.
Search did provide a lot of reading but nothing current. The Filling Station and Ecklers both show what May work.
The above said, anyone have personal experience with either of the above or other good options?
I bought and installed the ones that the Filling Station sells on my 51 3100. The rubber seals split withing a few months and they sent me replacements that I haven't installed yet. I haven't got it on the road yet. So no real experience. I have the stock 4-1/2 inch wide 16" wheels on it and they have adequate clearance. The tie rod ends and balls were fairly well worn out, so needed to replace them in any case.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I have a set like that, only from a different vender, they work good. My truck doesn't dart one way or the other when I get on the brakes hard like it did with the original ( rebuilt ) ends. They were a drop in replacement once the old balls were removed. Note, my is a 1/2 ton 1937.
If you go to the MOOG suspension site you can look at tie rod ends classified by dimension. On my 2 ton they are very conventional modern ends, I don't know what the 3/4 ton ends are like.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
This a "while I'm in there post". I'm changing kingpins on my truck. It has less than 60k miles and the tie rod ends that are not "too" bad. But they do just barely touch the wheel weights on the 16" Dexter wheels. If I can come up with new style tie rod ends that will give the necessary wheel clearance I'll just change them out now. I'll also disassemble and clean the originals just to see what I've got.
Search did provide a lot of reading but nothing current. The Filling Station and Ecklers both show what May work.
The above said, anyone have personal experience with either of the above or other good options?
Thanks,
RonR
Maybe I'm missing the point, however, I also have the Dexstar wheels on my 1954 3600 and there is clearance between the brake drum and wheel that should allow the folks at the tire shop to use the adhesive backed balance weights. That may be an option to having to update the tie rod ends.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604 In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
The point is (at least to me) that those modern type tie-rod ends don't use springs like the older original style do. The older type with springs allow the alignment to change as the springs compress, likely contributing to "death wobble".
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Looks like I'll stay with the original tie rod and pitman arm ends. After removing the pitman arm and seeing what shape the round pins and all other components are in, I'm thinking a disassembly and a good cleaning and greasing is all that's needed.
I've got a bit to go before I'll have everything apart and clean, but so far it's looking encouraging. The end caps I've uncrewed come off with almost no effort (once the carter key pulled of course) and there been no obvious wear.
If the senior tie rod ends do work out, I'll do as Dusty53 suggested earlier and change the wheel weights to the thin flat adhesive type.
