The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Samantha, Otto Skorzeny, tesa), 337 guests, and 4 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,162
Posts1,057,057
Members48,463
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4
A
Junior Member
Junior Member
A Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4
Hi all I'm wanting to make my 66 C60 into a retro car hauler.
I'm looking for any info on dovetail or roll back plans ideas and so on.
I suppose I could go buy a new one but I'm low budget and have a good bit of the steel to start,and can do the work myself.
I'm leaning toward the dovetail just for the simplicity.
Might be interested in a used bed for low bucks and close to SC.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jim

Jims Webshots page


Jimmy
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 587
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 587
Flat bed not too hard. 5" channel for two main runners, mount on 1" wood decking, cut down middle and drill holes for each rivet to set in. Use 4" channel all around outside, miter if you can at corners. Use 3" channel for cross braces if using wood for bed, or use more 4" to make level for sheet steel. Use rect tube for stake pockets, and run a wide 3/8" thick or so flat stock on outside of those for tie downs for straps. Old U=bolts with each length down opposite sides of a cross'channel makes good tie downs. OR, put them over the main 5" rails and stick above floor. Angle the bed after the frame ends, by cutting the metals at proper angle. Some needs cut off both mating ends, or it won't line up correct to weld if you cut just one. Some ideas I have done. For wood I like 2 x 6 tongue and grooove, or random size 2 x lumber and cut the dado in each edge. This is so dirt and gravel won't fall thru when hauling, as wood always shrinks if you use treated. Non=treated will rot in year or two. Never found a good paint or finish to stay on in weather or against wear. Best I used was Farm Horse Pen Paint, black. Kind of the modern Creosote replacement.


G.L. Grumpy's
Old Iron Ranch
Huntington, IN 46750


MM R tractor, Speedex
and Power King tractors
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
I found this one and the truck doesn't look too bad either,
Scott

http://www.tommystrailers.com/bertha.htm


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!

Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0