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I have a 51 235 that I have removed from my 52 1/2T. I am going to rebabbit it and reinstall. While it is on the stand is there any way I can tell if the block is cracked? What normally cracks? The piston sleeves or the water jacket? I see no indication of cracks on the outside of the block. Thx.
Glenn,

These engines tended to crack on the outside on the drivers side just about in the center.Dont recall any other places much.. the heads cracked on both sides from freezing...but also cracked around the exhaust seats sometimes....One thing to look for is one or more cylinders cleaner from carbon than the others...water will wash out carbon.....That might indicate a crack in the cylinder head....

If you're going to rebuild this engine, I strongly suggest you bring it to a reputable machine shop that will magnaflux the engine block and cylinder head. These blocks can also exhibit cracks in the main bearing caps or webs from heavy use, bearing failure, bolt stresses or improper handling of the block. The older engines such as yours that may have been operated without antifreeze can also rust out between the bottom of the water jacket and the crankcase.

Also, I would replace the babbitt bearings with insert bearings... a lot quieter.

I replaced the Babbitt bearings in my 235 with insert bearings and I know of a lot others that have done it. It can be done with no problem.

I had my 216 rods machined to take the insert bearings. The new inserts have a slotted hole where the dipper mounts. The McQuay Norris brand of inserts have the slotted hole centered in the rod cap, which is actually not optimum. The correct location is located off center. I don't think they would do any harm but I used a different brand.

I can vouch for what inlineal says...I had a 216 in a '51 chevy car and that is exactly where my block cracked after leaving the engine full of water through the winter.