If you are referring to the cowl vent drain pipe then the original from factory has a slight angle to the drivers side of the engine compartment to keep from dumping the water onto the engine. Can provide a pic later today if desired.
That vent/scoop might still drip water onto the engine/valve-cover? That is especially fatal with Chevrolet Truck valve covers (engines) that have slits/holes in the top. A very poor/dangerous design.
For the sake of overkill and for complete drainage-safety, I have that hose/tube angled away from the driver's side, AND, I have a hose-to-hose tube-fitting for an extension hose that runs below the upper-lip/top of the oil pan. I remove this extension at shows.
34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...C379AF4-CFAB-41CC-9382-9C225D547AED.jpeg[/img]Thanks, my truck does stay under a shed but I’ll see if I can extend it & to the side. I tried to post a picture but it never went through. The reason I noticed was that today I coul not open the vent. WD 40 in the handle lock notches piece.
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
Glennj3, your drain is too short. The factory replacements are quite a bit longer. Here’s one from Classic Parts and there really cheap. [LINK]
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
