"The biggest unknowns for me right now are dealing with the torque tube so that it doesn't crush me... "
Mike,
To keep the torque tube from crushing you:
- place wheel chocks on both sides of the front wheels (2x4s would be OK) - jack up the rear of the truck and put jack stands under the sides of rear axle housing - disconnect the u-joint cover and slide backwards as far as possible (after cleaning outer torque tube until it shines) - place a floor jack under the torque tube with a floor jack about 2 feet behind the u-joint - raise the jack to support the torque tube - disconnect the u-joint assembly, remove the joint, slide (gently hammer) the rear yoke as far rearward as possible - you should now be able to jack up the torque-tube so the forward end is above the bottom of the frame rail - cut a piece of 2x4 so that you can place it inside the frame rail side-to-side - push the 2x4 rearward to hold the torque-tube securely up and out of your way - place wheel chocks on both side of the rear wheels (2x4s would be OK) - the transmission (3-speed or 4-speed) can now be easily removed/installed - you can now safely work under the truck/drive-train
Torque tube was fairly easy. Think of a drive shaft inside a tube! Here is how I did it. 1. Put floor jack under torque tube to hold in place, not much pressure. 2. Empty transmission fluid 3. Loosen collar on Torque tube (1 foot behind transmission) 4. Loosen trans mount (4 bolts - 1/2 or 9/16 inch wrench) and 4 bolts where the TT meets back of transmission (4x 1/2 wrench bolts) 5. Slide apart the round ball TT part from trans (u joint can be seen once apart) 6. 4 bolts holding u joint in place (3/8” wrench I think) 7. Secure all bolts (I lost one!)
Transmission is now free from torque tube. You may have to adjust floor tack slightly to take pressure off of bolts. Putting it back in is pretty easy as long as transmission is in neutral! Buy new transmission gasket for TT-transmission joint ( $10?)Took 2 of us 30 mins to pull it and 4 of us 20 mins to put new one in.
Thanks for the information to keep me safe! The torque tube being like a spring loaded lever was mentioned to me a while ago and kinda freaked me out. I really don't want my hobby to be my undoing!
The torque tube is NOT under spring tension. The leaf spring perches clamp around the rear axle housing and are free to spin/pivot as the rear moves up and down driving down the road. When you unbolt the ball joint at the transmission the only weight you'll have is the weight of the tube, maybe 20 pounds or less.
If you need to unbolt the rear from the springs to slide it back for any reason, leave the tires on it and raise the frame up and just roll the rear back free of the body/frame. Again all your're holding up off the floor is the front of the tube.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
I prefer the KISS meathod (keep it simple stupid). You guys are smart and rattle off all kinds of things while I keep trying to find that darn blinker fluid. I can say that I have learned a lot by watching, listening, and doing it all wrong (more than once).
I am working on a valve adjustment that I completely screwed up! (Tried to follow the posts, epic fail!) Time for some assistance and a little listening to smart people. After that, back on the road!
Arrived at Chris’ place yesterday afternoon, remove the valve cover and determined his engine was at #6 TDC. Chris gets ready to climb under his truck to spin the flywheel. I stop him and explain that wherever the rotor is currently pointing should go to to plug #6.
We then continue the clockwise firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4 and here is what happened next:
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns..... 1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-Ton The GreenMachine In the Stovebolt Gallery
Nice job guys! Encouraging to see progress being made in this frigid weather!
~ Victor 1941 3/4-Ton Pickup (in process). Read about it in the DITY Gallery 1955 Grumman Kurbside "Doughboy" 235/3 on tree w/ OD 1957 3100 - moved on 1959 C4500 Short Bus "Magic Bus" - moved on 1959 G3800 1 Ton Dually "Chief" - moved on 1958 C4400 Viking "Thor" ~ moved on to fellow Bolter
We used the garage to block any wind and then the sun was still shining! Wasn't too bad. The truck actually start right up as soon as we put the plug wires onto it. I think we were only outside for 30 minutes and that included sweet's timing by listening.
Actually.... my painter screwed up! It was supposed to be sunburst orange (new GM color). He originally didn’t shake the can enough and color came out wrong! Needless to say, painter was fired (numerous reasons) and I kept the color!
Got it Chris. The sunset orange is what is on my panel and danged if yours don't look like its cousin..... my color is from a Mitsibushi Eclipse 2006. Similar colors for sure. Looks nice on your pickup......but don't tell the painter I said that. LOL
Putting a plug into the temp sensor hole on the 216 as a temporary fix until I get a new gauge. I would be on the road if it wasn't going to rain and be so cold. I guess that means that I can do all my checks and install windshield wiper motor while it is cold outside. See you all on the road very soon!
Engine is now running! No observed leaks! Sounds good, too bad weather will get bad tomorrow. Only need a valve adjustment and a few other minor things. See you all on the road soon!
Congrats Chris! Just returned from a road test myself. I look forward to having you in the line up!
~ John
A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.
1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 1963 Kaiser M38A1 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
John, it would be an honor to bring up the rear with the slower guys running 216s. Hopefully we can get the new rearend put in prior to homecoming! Glad you are back on the road!
I painted it gray due to the ease of using a paint brush. I would love it to be the color of the original engine I had in there, but this was easier. right or not, I just want to drive it and have a clean engine.
OUCH! That looks like maybe a rod bolt got overtorqued and partially stripped the last time the engine was assembled. Was there any damage to the block? Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I guess that explains the wonderful sound that I heard! FYI, I never opened the block when I bought it. I drove about 500 miles with it before attempting to drive to Winchester when she went boom!
Blah Blah Blah, My 261 is almost completed! Dare to stand out amongst the rest! 235 is the power plant you should want!! Seriously, It looks good, best of luck with it! Jim
~ Jim Schmidt, Bucks County, PA 1953 Chevrolet 3804 1-ton In the DITY Gallery
