The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline My parking brake sucks

Why does the parking brake in my '49 3600 suck? Literally everything in the rear brakes is new. I'm fairly certain that I have it adjusted properly since if I tighten up the adjustment just slightly, the brakes drag and get hot. The parking brake pedal travels all the way to the floor and will hold the truck on perfectly flat ground, but forget it on any kind of incline. It seems like it should engage somewhere midway in it's travel. Am I missing something obvious here?

Try this; after setting the parking brake, push on the regular brake pedal firmly. On my '51 half ton, it helps a great deal to add this step.

Also where are you “making adjustments “. Secondly Two man job. While slowly engaging inspect each link in the system. I had a pulley midway that was shifting causing not as much cable movement as I thought

There is a solid rod from the pedal to the rockshaft that is adjustable. I've adjusted that so the rockshaft travels equal distance both sides of center from brake released to brake applied at full pedal travel (with the cables disconnected). I then adjusted each cable until the brake just started to drag and then backed them off 1/2 turn. The service brakes were adjusted properly prior to any of this. It's almost like there's lost motion in the system someplace since the pedal is going to the floor, but everything is new and tight.

Im not tryin to be a jerk but... READ the manual. I JUST went through this. I was losing my mind laying on the floor adjusting the brakes to the max. I got it to just work on flat but wouldn’t hold a hill. Then i got online and read the manual at work one day and i just started laughing at myself. I had no idea about the eccentric bolt that adjusts the slack in the parking brake system. Heres the link. Hope this helps ya.
Manual

If the drums have been turned and the shoes have not been arced to match, this will give you very little shoe contact, and the e brake will not work well.

Pre 68 Dave thats a great point. Never even thought of that.

Pre 68 Dave does make a great point (as usual).
However, I also suggest that you carefully read the Chevrolet Manual on how to properly adjust the rod which goes between the pedal and the crossbar. There is a specific distance indicated between the hump in the cross bar and the crossmember.
Also, the cable adjustments are to be made with the parking brake pedal depressed 1 1/2".
Its all in The Manual. If you don't already have the manual, buy one. Online versions are fine for certain things, but I like the hard copy for careful, over and over reading.

Thats why i linked the manual. Its a very specific adjustment procedure. Im the normal guy that does it my way then if it dosent work I scratch my head and reluctantly read directions. Well my parking brake sucked HAHAHA. Then i read the directions.

If I am not mistaken, The Man Card bylaws specifically require one to follow your modus operandi. Failure to do so precludes one from being issued said Man Card, or retaining any previously issued Man Card.

I’ve put it off long enough. Shutting the truck off and putting in gear every time I want to get out is pretty inconvenient. It’s time to address my parking brake.

It certainly looks like it’s all there (crust level 11) but I’ve been reluctant to try it....assuming that something would seize in place and cause me a lot of grief. The hydraulic brakes are rebuilt and working just fine.

Squirt all the moving bits down with penetrating oil....work all the joints loose and just go for it? Replace cables first as preventative action? Or lube it up as it as and follow the shop manual procedure?