The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (Eisenholtz, Peggy M), 46 guests, and 5 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,022
Posts1,055,376
Members48,420
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1392603 01/14/2021 1:59 AM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
I posted a few weeks ago about my weak heater and replacing the 160 thermostat with a 180 version. Unfortunately, during the test drives, the gauge goes half way between the midpoint and the top end before settling down just over the mid mark (by this time I have the heater on full trying to help get the temp down). So I pulled the 180 thermostat and tested it; which showed it to be a 190 thermostat! I reinstalled the 160 deciding I could live with it here in Texas, but noticed that I now have a small leak from the core running into the cab. I guess the high heat/pressure might have opened something up (sorry this is such a long story). To finally get to my question, is there anything I can do to try to seal up the core? I ordered a new one online, but was told that it will not be here until mid january (maybe, he admitted that it is coming from China). Instead of waiting, what else can I try?

Thanks, Lee.

Oh, and it is the non deluxe version heater, just a recirc fan in the round core.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
LeeD #1392606 01/14/2021 2:13 AM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,003
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,003
Well about the only thing i could think of would be to connect da heater hoses together temporarily. No heat, but no leak either.

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Originally Posted by glenns towing
Well about the only thing i could think of would be to connect da heater hoses together temporarily. No heat, but no leak either.

Been there, done that.

LeeD #1392609 01/14/2021 2:42 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,000
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,000
Send it off to this guy and let him fix it up for you. wink


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
LeeD #1392615 01/14/2021 4:38 AM
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 678
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 678
Bars Leak, Silver Solder, Blue Devil, etc. I've done a couple of "temporary" repairs with these products that ended up lasting the life of the vehicle.


1951 Chevy Panel Truck
LeeD #1392619 01/14/2021 6:02 AM
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 892
1
'Bolter
'Bolter
1 Offline
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 892
Back in the day that I wrenched for a logging company, each re-cored radiator got a quart can of Bars Leaks. Otherwise they would be leaking again in a month or so. Rough roads, don't ya know. Don't put a whole quart in a pickup.


1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
LeeD #1392629 01/14/2021 1:36 PM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
I did the circle hoses trick so I am still driving at least. I could not find where it was leaking when I took it out (it looked like it was coming from inside) but I did not put air in it to try to pin point the location. If I can find the leak I will try my hand at soldering and see if I can fix it.

Lee.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
LeeD #1392642 01/14/2021 4:08 PM
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
I had poor luck with having the heater core repaired by a local radiator shop. It didn't leak until the water got up to temperature and then started a small leak. Did this 2 times. Finally purchased a replacement core from Brassworks. I posted about it here https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...rks_Recirculating_Heate.html#Post1011395

LeeD #1392647 01/14/2021 5:04 PM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
I may have the same issues about it only leaking when hot. I just pumped it up to about 20 psi (in a tub of H2O) and it did not leak. I am going to reinstall it and see if the leak returns.

Lee.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
LeeD #1392648 01/14/2021 5:11 PM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
Chuck,
I just read your post on the Brassworks core; really nice! I’ll look into that if my original is still leaking.

Lee.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
LeeD #1392734 01/15/2021 11:56 AM
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 559
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 559
I also did a brassworks in my 49 gmc with my LS swap and I give it 2 thumbs up 👍 👍. Mine fit great and work great. Mine runs at a constant 190-195 so its nice and toasty in there. Fan is “loud” on high but i keep it on medium and it heats perfect for me.

LeeD #1392758 01/15/2021 3:01 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 898
5
'Bolter
'Bolter
5 Offline
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 898
I also went the brassworks route on my 55.2 3100.


Brian
1955.2 3100 Truck
The older I get the more dangerous I am!!!!!
LeeD #1393036 01/17/2021 2:18 PM
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,450
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,450
LeeD Well you might try the oldest trick in the book...a tablespoon of black pepper in the radiator LOL !Seriously that will work, however I hate to put dirt in the cooling system !!

fixite7 #1393379 01/19/2021 3:43 PM
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 559
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 559
Tricks like that are just a temporary “get ya home” fix. Its not something that a critical thinker would ever trust long term.

LeeD #1393395 01/19/2021 5:39 PM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
It looks like I will need to replace the core. Driving to work yesterday I had not gone a mile when I looked to the floor and saw water already starting to pool up. Fortunately I have shut off valves on both hoses so I closed them both and stopped the leak. Unless the leak is at the connections, it looks like leak is worse. Oh, well.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed

Moderated by  Gdads51 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0