The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (UtahYork, Otto Skorzeny, Gdads51, Bicounty), 145 guests, and 7 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,089
Posts1,056,130
Members48,435
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1385950 11/26/2020 1:08 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
Taking my ‘52 3100 out for a test drive today, after installing my re-machined ‘59 235, there was a bit of vibration in the steering wheel at 40-45 MPH. The vibration seemed to be while it was under load as it also occurred in first going up a small hill on the dirt road going to my house. It was also pretty noisy at that speed and I’m assuming the vibration may have something to do with that.

My first though was the front motor mount might be hitting. I installed a new inner rubber and the top cap. The gap seemed sufficient. Don’t know why I felt it in the steering wheel and not in the seat of my pants nor the dash board.

What are the possibility’s ?


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Check for a bulge in the front tire sidewall or a separation in the tread.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
Tim, I have done the steering wheel adjustment but never did a toe in adjustment. This I had planned to do but got overwhelmed by the engine/tranny rebuild.

Justhorsenround, I wasn’t thinking it had to do with tires as it was more of a buzzing type vibration than a thump, thump, thump type. I do have to check the tire pressure so I examine the tires too.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
Originally Posted by Phak1
My first though was the front motor mount might be hitting. I installed a new inner rubber and the top cap. The gap seemed sufficient. Don’t know why I felt it in the steering wheel and not in the seat of my pants nor the dash board.

What are the possibility’s ?

Did you check the gap with the mount loaded?
Is it new rubber?

Dose not sound like a mount issue since is more at certain speeds,
Just checking off boxes

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
I might have found the smoking gun. I checked the front motor mount and it was near hitting in the back where I could see it. In was only able to slip a .015” feeler gauge in between. I never checked it with the weight of the motor on it so I removed the front mount bolting, loosened the rear engine mounts, exhaust manifold to pipe flange and jacked the engine up enough to remove the mount. I milled about 1/16” off of it and reinstalled. I set the engine down on the mount and remeasured. Just over 1/16”. Perfect!

I also noticed that the washer that is bolted to the engine that is under the rubber mount was too big hitting the metal dish that holds the rubber. I chucked the washers in my lathe and cut them down so they won’t hit anymore.

I was looking at Denny Graham’s post on the front motor mount and he talks about a fat washer sandwiched between the mount and the frame. This wash was nonexistent on my truck. There also shown in the Factory Assembly Manual on Section 6 Sheet 12.

Can any of our fellow “ Stovebolters” tell me the OD and thickness of these washers?
Attachments
82FE3581-A8A3-4C1E-806B-A95B040EE2F9.jpeg (164.92 KB, 150 downloads)
093B7937-9CCB-4050-AE51-0ED72440A3F0.jpeg (178.51 KB, 149 downloads)


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
.
What I found on my 50
Attachments
5DB3987C-34B5-4FA4-AFF3-F15F6E69C749.jpeg (324.16 KB, 151 downloads)
282B0D82-59CD-43D3-84FE-724ADB8027FB.jpeg (153.32 KB, 146 downloads)

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
Thanks, DADS50! Those will elevate the nuts and bolts that fasten the mount to the engine above the frame, eliminating any contact with the frame.

Now to find some stock to turn some washers!


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
I turned new washers and finished installing the front motor mount. Everything clears but unfortunately it’s too dark and cold to test drive. Maybe tomorrow!
Attachments


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
I test drove the truck today and it still has the vibration. I feel it mostly in the steering wheel. It's the worst at 45 MPH and disappears when I put the clutch in. I took her to 60 and the vibration was still there but didn’t seem as bad.

Where shall I look?


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Have you checked the tie-rod ends, the king pins and the steering idler-arm end (check the play/looseness)?

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
“Disappears when I put the clutch in”, driveline issue. Bad throw out bearing? Just throwing stuff out there. Good luck.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,065
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,065
U-joint? The one I removed from my truck was badly worn.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
Originally Posted by tclederman
Have you checked the tie-rod ends, the king pins and the steering idler-arm end (check the play/looseness)?
Replaced all new last year. The only thing I didn't do was a front end alignment and balancing (Tires were just mounted and balanced when I bought the truck). I was waiting until I got the truck drivable.
Originally Posted by Justhorsenround
“Disappears when I put the clutch in”, driveline issue. Bad throw out bearing? Just throwing stuff out there. Good luck.
Just had it out and no signs of wear.
Originally Posted by klhansen
U-joint? The one I removed from my truck was badly worn.
Just put it in and saw no issues.

Last edited by Phak1; 11/29/2020 11:05 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,480
I did a toe in alignment today. It was toe’d out about 1/8” . I adjusted the tie rod, so I ended up with 1/8” toe in. The change made the steering feel better but did nothing for the vibration. I also lifted each tire to check my new bearings and they were perfect.

The vibration goes away when I push the clutch in and coast. I really feel it’s a engine vibration. I replaced the harmonic balance last year and after searching ”What does a bad harmonic balancer feel like” on the internet, it sounds like its a good possibility. It looks good but I decided to do a run out on it. The concentricity was out 0.010” TIR and the face was out .007” TIR. This is riding on the damper and not the pulley. I tried prying between the damper and the pulley and did not find any movement.

I don’t know if that makes the balancer good or not. I figured I’d ask the experts.

Maybe I’m barking up the wrong tree, It’s happened before!

Last edited by Phak1; 12/06/2020 1:02 AM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0