Taking my ‘52 3100 out for a test drive today, after installing my re-machined ‘59 235, there was a bit of vibration in the steering wheel at 40-45 MPH. The vibration seemed to be while it was under load as it also occurred in first going up a small hill on the dirt road going to my house. It was also pretty noisy at that speed and I’m assuming the vibration may have something to do with that.
My first though was the front motor mount might be hitting. I installed a new inner rubber and the top cap. The gap seemed sufficient. Don’t know why I felt it in the steering wheel and not in the seat of my pants nor the dash board.
What are the possibility’s ?
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Check for a bulge in the front tire sidewall or a separation in the tread.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Tim, I have done the steering wheel adjustment but never did a toe in adjustment. This I had planned to do but got overwhelmed by the engine/tranny rebuild.
Justhorsenround, I wasn’t thinking it had to do with tires as it was more of a buzzing type vibration than a thump, thump, thump type. I do have to check the tire pressure so I examine the tires too.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
My first though was the front motor mount might be hitting. I installed a new inner rubber and the top cap. The gap seemed sufficient. Don’t know why I felt it in the steering wheel and not in the seat of my pants nor the dash board.
What are the possibility’s ?
Did you check the gap with the mount loaded? Is it new rubber?
Dose not sound like a mount issue since is more at certain speeds, Just checking off boxes
I might have found the smoking gun. I checked the front motor mount and it was near hitting in the back where I could see it. In was only able to slip a .015” feeler gauge in between. I never checked it with the weight of the motor on it so I removed the front mount bolting, loosened the rear engine mounts, exhaust manifold to pipe flange and jacked the engine up enough to remove the mount. I milled about 1/16” off of it and reinstalled. I set the engine down on the mount and remeasured. Just over 1/16”. Perfect!
I also noticed that the washer that is bolted to the engine that is under the rubber mount was too big hitting the metal dish that holds the rubber. I chucked the washers in my lathe and cut them down so they won’t hit anymore.
I was looking at Denny Graham’s post on the front motor mount and he talks about a fat washer sandwiched between the mount and the frame. This wash was nonexistent on my truck. There also shown in the Factory Assembly Manual on Section 6 Sheet 12.
Can any of our fellow “ Stovebolters” tell me the OD and thickness of these washers?
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Thanks, DADS50! Those will elevate the nuts and bolts that fasten the mount to the engine above the frame, eliminating any contact with the frame.
Now to find some stock to turn some washers!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I turned new washers and finished installing the front motor mount. Everything clears but unfortunately it’s too dark and cold to test drive. Maybe tomorrow!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I test drove the truck today and it still has the vibration. I feel it mostly in the steering wheel. It's the worst at 45 MPH and disappears when I put the clutch in. I took her to 60 and the vibration was still there but didn’t seem as bad.
Where shall I look?
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
“Disappears when I put the clutch in”, driveline issue. Bad throw out bearing? Just throwing stuff out there. Good luck.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
U-joint? The one I removed from my truck was badly worn.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Have you checked the tie-rod ends, the king pins and the steering idler-arm end (check the play/looseness)?
Replaced all new last year. The only thing I didn't do was a front end alignment and balancing (Tires were just mounted and balanced when I bought the truck). I was waiting until I got the truck drivable.
Originally Posted by Justhorsenround
“Disappears when I put the clutch in”, driveline issue. Bad throw out bearing? Just throwing stuff out there. Good luck.
Just had it out and no signs of wear.
Originally Posted by klhansen
U-joint? The one I removed from my truck was badly worn.
Just put it in and saw no issues.
Last edited by Phak1; 11/29/202011:05 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I did a toe in alignment today. It was toe’d out about 1/8” . I adjusted the tie rod, so I ended up with 1/8” toe in. The change made the steering feel better but did nothing for the vibration. I also lifted each tire to check my new bearings and they were perfect.
The vibration goes away when I push the clutch in and coast. I really feel it’s a engine vibration. I replaced the harmonic balance last year and after searching ”What does a bad harmonic balancer feel like” on the internet, it sounds like its a good possibility. It looks good but I decided to do a run out on it. The concentricity was out 0.010” TIR and the face was out .007” TIR. This is riding on the damper and not the pulley. I tried prying between the damper and the pulley and did not find any movement.
I don’t know if that makes the balancer good or not. I figured I’d ask the experts.
Maybe I’m barking up the wrong tree, It’s happened before!
Last edited by Phak1; 12/06/20201:02 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum