I would like to start sand blasting my cab (1953). I have an Eastwood pressurized blaster. I have tried to use it for other jobs in the past, and have never been happy with the operation. It seems that it either puts out very little sand, or pukes out amounts too huge to use. There usually is not much range in between. Most of my friends have cut off the original nozzel and installed a ball valve in it's place. I was told by another guy that he used a ball valve with the shaft of an old air chuck attached and that it worked out well. Since I'm probably not the only guy who's experienced issues with this type of blaster, I'm in hope that some of you folks can give me some good guidance on what you've done to help this problem.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
How's your air supply? If there's lots of moisture in it, it can clog the sand delivery. I haven't used a pressure blaster, but moisture is known to be the bane of them.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I have a good strong speed aire compressor with a regulator and water trap on the output. That's all I knew to do. The water trap seems to work, in that there's usually a little water in it when I drain it. I also have a couple of vertical drops in my plumbing, for water collection. My piping is all galvanized metal.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
I've never had a water trap "at the blaster tank". I'll add one and see if that helps. I'm aware that the sand must be dry. I've tried some media that was a little too big. That was a real pain in the neck. Yes, I've worked with the mix valve. It doesn't seem to have the effect that I wish it did. I've done lots of blasting in my cabinet for many years, and have generally been very pleased with it. I hoped that this pressurized tank blaster would allow me to have similar success outside. So far it's mostly just been frustrating. I'll get another water filter and give it another try sometime soon. It's going to be warm again in Indiana in a few days.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
I have a gravity blaster for outside use. I found the sand funnels very quickly and then stops flowing. I made a platform with rockers underneath so I can 'rock' it with my foot and keep the sand flowing.
Wayne 1938 1-Ton Farm Truck Stovebolt Gallery Forums 1989 Silverado 1996 Mustang GT convertible When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!
Mike I purchased a 20 pound Harbor Freight pressure blaster this past summer to clean up some nasty rust posts, rust pitted surface areas and inaccessible nooks and crannies on my cab. I experienced some of the issues you had been confronted with. Dry blast media is very important , but my issue was poor media flow from the bottom of the pressure tank. The weird zinc plated combo fitting on the bottom, similar to the Eastwood models was the issue and a chronic clog point. I replumbed it with 1/2 NPT black pipe and flow has been consistent and strong. I used fine grit Tractor Supply Black diamond grit. Can be reused 3 times. Took the rust down to white metal easily even with pits at 85 psi. Not sure if this is your problem but something to ponder if your issues persists. Happy blasting. Wear a good mask!! Mike
Nice info, I just bought a new one after 10 years without one, I remember my old one (harbor freight) had the same issue. Guess I know what I'm doing to my new one, lol.
Monza I saw something similar several years ago. Don't forget to lose those sketchy hose clamps and replace with some USA ones. If that hose blows off while you are blasting...well... it could ruin your day. I got the stainless steel 1/2 NPT ball valves and barbed fittings on Amazon. The blast media will eat through the bronze ones provided in short order. Get a good 3M respirator also.
bought a new one and blasted ONE chasiss with it and sold it for half price. If it want go in my bead blasting cabinet it goes to a local professional guy! It just taint worth it to me......but I do like the idea of getting rid of the original plumbing below.
.....for sand, I buy true, sized, blasting sand where I buy my concrete block and brick. Fine, medium or extra fine. 50 pound bag for under 5 bucks and its close by, no moisture and package nicely to prevent any.
You can't even buy blasting sand anywhere here now. Sellers dumped it like the plague soon as they found out about lawsuits over the fact that silica dust can cause silicosis resulting in tuberculosis, lung cancer, chronic bronchitis, autoimmune disorders, kidney disease and pulmonary fibrosis. There are multiple types of media available now, the main I use for automotive is copper slag media. Typically I can re-use it at least 3 times before I need to swap in some new. I like it because I don't have to do as much sanding prep after blasting to take down sharp edges before painting as compared to the old sand media I used to use. So far for body panels and aluminum, using walnut shell media has been great too...as long as no rust on sheet metal, won't remove that.