The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Looking for thoughts/suggestions on chassis rust prevention

I’m looking to formulate a plan on how I want to keep rust at bay when I get in to working on my 54. As much as I would love to do a full on resto on it my goal at this point is to get the truck running, on the road and enjoying it. Maybe a few years down the road I’ll decide to do the full resto but I might be enjoying it so much I won’t want to. Haha. So the plan on my truck is to basically update the drivetrain, update the braking and steering also the electricals. In doing this I know the front clip and box will be off the truck. Maybe even the cab at some point. The trucks been sitting for a number of years and there is the typical rust of sitting and being 66 years old. I’m planning on cleaning the frame of loose rust and I would like to seal it at that point. I may also do the inner fenders and basically anything bottom side.

My question is what are the thoughts on the rust converters or treatments for these parts? I’ve read of several products with various application processes. I may do a slight wire wheel to these rusty areas on the truck but I’m not taking it down to bare metal or sand blasting all the parts.

I’ve looked at the POR 15 system which looks good but is a process and prep is key. Also it must be top coated due to the lack of UV protection.

A similar product is Eastwood’s rust converter. Doesn’t look to be as much as a process and doesn’t need to be top coated like the POR.

I’ve looked at Corraseal also. Seems to be decent reviews and not as many steps as the POR.

I also read a recent post on using an epoxy primer. That seams to be good on a fairly bare metal surface.

I’m planning on rolling or painting these pieces that I’m applying the converter on not spraying. This is more because of the steps I’ll be doing it in. And the fact that these areas aren’t “seen” areas. Any thoughts on products/processes that you have used and suggestions are welcomed and appreciated. Thanks!

Adam

I'm building a '50 3100...nice rat rod, poor street rod. I had the frame sandblasted without removing the cab. I've applied, paint brush, the product Chassis Saver. I really like it. It acts as if it's a ceramic finish and maybe that's how they market it...not sure.
I'm going to have to wire brush areas under the cab that the blaster couldn't get to when the original engine and tranny were still in. Not a big problem...just a little surface rust.
If you're going to use a rust inhibitor product, I would suggest that you at least get the areas covered that you may not be able to get to once you start your renovations. You can always come back and finish it. Go enjoy it!

I've used different brands of rust converter over the years and even with multiple coats have found that it doesn't last unless top coated with a good paint. Just my $.02 you can take for what it's worth. Of course nothing beats mostly bare metal and a good coat of epoxy primer.

You can buy a paint called X-O Rust at True Value hardware. It is water based enamel, goes on in a rather thick coat with a brush, and can be painted over rusted metal (as long as dust has been removed). Decent stuff, doesn't cost a lot and really easy to apply & clean up brushes and your hands. Resistant to salt, also. If you apply a second coat, I think you have to wait 24 hours. POR...very thin, get it on your hands and wear it for weeks. There are better products which aren't overmarketed and overpriced.

Please please please save yourself a lot of restless nights and regret later for not taking a little more time on the restoration work your about to do. With only the cab remaining it is fairly easy to raise it up and do the COMPLETE chassis.

By all means get it sand blasted. If you can't take it to one then look for a guy who does mobile blasting in your area. Best money you will ever spend on your ride.......you can choose what you want to "paint" it with. I personally prefer the POR15 just remember to wear gloves and disposable clothes!! Use throw away brushes and forget it. The POR 15 will last and if not exposed to sunlight does NOT need painting. After 7 years my panel still looks great.

Use what you like but also be aware to make sure you grind it off or what ever it takes to make sure you get good grounds.
The POR 15 is some dang tuff stuff.

A couple years from now you'll thank me!!! Do it once, do it right.

ditto on Achipmunk's post/opinions.

[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...2D0218A-881F-4F50-8594-D1C7D2FEAA33.jpeg[/img]I have used a product called RUSFRE. I plan to use it on my 54 as I get it ready for the road. My frame, bottom and wheel wells of my truck are surface rusted with no paint, just some mud. It sprays on, and I have a few home made wand/tips to get into panels and crevices. I have used it over the years on 3 of my daily drives, one a second application 5 years after. Beware though this goes on like a waxy oil. It doesn’t drip off but if you touched it in the first 3 weeks you’ll get black finger tips. Nobody I ever recommend this stuff to has gone ahead and used it, but I think it is great as a rust stopper.

Thanks guys for the comments so far. It may come to the point of sandblasting the frame we’ll see. I restore vintage large Woodworking equipment also, Oliver Machinery. No relation to tractors or typewriters. They were in Grand Rapids Michigan for almost 90 years. Their equipment was very popular in pattern shops, Government contracts and schools. I normally do a full on restore with all those pieces. This consists of stripping paint and rust, laying down body filler to fill the cast components, shining up all machined surfaces, bearings, electrical and of course spraying primers/sealers/top coats and than assembling. I was hoping to put the brakes on, no pun intended, on basically tearing this truck down like I do the Woodworking machines. I really do want to get it on the road next year. I don’t have the funds at this point to do a full on resto on this truck. But if it makes sense to do certain procedures now I will. Thanks again for the thoughts and it looks like I have some more researching to do.

Adam

I understand your desire to get it on the road. You are not restoring and maybe never will. Here is the plan for that. I am going by what your general goal is for right now.

1. Wire wheel and/or needle.
2. Get some cans of this.
3. Then spray with rustoleum black enamel cans.
4. This will be adequate and touch ups are easier.
5. Rattle can is the way to go here. Cheap, easy.
6. Stay off salty roads.
7. If areas start to re-rust, do 1 thru 3 in those areas.
8. Nothing wrong with this method and it can be sandblasted off if you ever decide to upgrade.
9. Regular undercoat is hell to remove.