Hi, New to the forum and for starters, a lot of good information here. Very much appreciated. I’ve been looking to score a good decent 3100 1/2 ton pickup to start a project. But it seems as if people are asking a bit much for some decent 3100’s. Most trucks I see for sale are going for upwards of $15,000 in not so good shape, contains a bit of rust. Is this hobby pricing out folks? I understand location and zip code can affect pricing. I live in the Los Angeles area.
There are not many truck around anymore sitting in yards especially were there is no rust .Check the stovebolt spotting or craigslist ect there was one posted .
Your going to have to come about 800-1000 miles east to get the price down.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Welcome!! What years are you interested in? It does affect the asking price as some series/years are more popular than others. I agree they are all too high, speaking as a potential buyer. Sellers may not agree. 😎 eBay and Craigslist are good places to see asking prices. Specialty sites like oldcars.com are typically higher. Print ads in local ad sheets, e.g. penny pincher, thrifty nickel... sometimes have bargains. Good luck.
Are you wanting a already street legal and safe truck? Or are you looking to build one yourself. Good advice from the previous posts.
Myself, I like these higher prices, I need to reduce the harem. Don
Last edited by 2-Ton; 05/04/202011:18 PM.
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck "The Flag Pole" In the Stovebolt Gallery 1946 2-Ton grain truck 1946 3/4-ton pickup, 1953 1-ton pickup 1957 1-ton flatbed dually, 1954 Pontiac Straight Eight Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
I’m interested in a ‘48 - ‘54 1/2 ton 5 window with preferably the original motor/transmission. One thing I’ve noticed happening more frequently is vehicles being flipped. I’ll see a truck on sale on Craigslist, then the same truck will be posted on eBay by a different person. I feel this is what brings the price of cars up a bit.
I figured with what is going on currently, there would be some deals going on. Guess not.
Seems like 5 years ago the average was $5000 for a running and driving truck that had a moderate amount of repairable rust. These trucks still needed TLC, but could get on the road for a short trip without killing you. Today, it seems like the same truck would be in the $8500-10,000 range. I just bought a 51 running and driving that is close to road worthy for $4200. They are still out there...you just have to be patient and network around. Good luck in your search.
Izzy15, please take the time to read the Sticky Thread at the top of this Forum posted by Cletis on why posts are edited, moved or deleted. We ask that you follow the site rules. Thanks
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Saw these listings the other day in California on the Market Place. I looked for about 1 1/2 years before I found my 49. I was looking for a truck that was about 75% completed. I wanted to do a little of the work but not the major stuff.
Note from Staff: links to sale sites are not allowed.
Last edited by Justhorsenround; 05/05/202012:22 PM. Reason: Removed links
"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem" 1949 5 Window 3100 Follow in the DITY Veteran of the USAF My Website
condition, condition, condition......spend a little more money for a good body and you will come out ahead. The mechanical's are a lot less expensive. And as someone above mentioned, be willing to drive a few miles to save hundreds of dollars. Some folks are asking crazy money and just seeing if they can find a dimwit to pay the price. Set a price you willing to pay and then find the best buy for your money. The good part is for 47-54 many replacement parts are available. (the biggest money will be in the body work)
Thank you all for the advice. Achipmunk:That is a good idea. The price I’m set at is $12,000.00. Hopefully I can find one in pretty good shape that I can slowly transform into a nice solid looking stock truck.
You can find deals if you are not in a hurry. I was in the driveway a couple of years ago and a guy pulled up in a rool-off with a 54 3/4 ton on the back. My unrestored and undriveable 53 was sitting at the side of the garage. He said "I saw your old truck and wanted to know if you want to buy this one, I have an open title." I asked how much thinking I might buy it for parts. He stated that it used to run but that's all he knew and wanted $300. It came with a few 12 gauge slug holes in it.It might run and drive, never did anything to it. I keep air in the tires. I decided to give him his full asking price. Since then my build has gotten out of control and it sits out back. The question to me is not how much but how much work do you want to do and at what level? You can ship it from pretty much anywhere in the country for $1K. Go look at it for a few hundred more. I'm guessing your not going to trade it in in a couple of years so take the time needed. For me it's the journey not the destination, but that's just me. Thank you for your time.
Buying and selling in the regular forums is against the rules. Since the photos posted are stealth for sale offers you all are being warned.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Well Mick you weren’t the offending party. Both of them deleted their posts. Carry on.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
There are so many variables to take into account when looking for a specific truck. If I were looking for another one to work on, I would look for one without much rust, (no rust holes!), or bondo. I don't want long creases in fenders or doors. I would rather have a truck with a very solid body, but needs mechanical work. Odds are, no matter what you find for less than $12,000, it will need to have every moving part worked on. If one were to settle on a truck with some a number of dents and rust holes, one would likely be looking at a whole lot of rust repairs which cannot be seen. Then, on top of this, there will be the issue of having to go through all of the moving parts. A double whammy which makes that particular truck virtually worthless to me. I can buy new parts for less than what it would take to have a rusty, dented up truck ready for paint. I realize that working an these trucks is a hobby for most of us, but your body and paint man does not do his job as a hobby. He wants to get paid, and he is expensive. But that's just my 2 cents (which cost me more than $10,000 on my last build).
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission