The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 71 Chevy C50 Divorced Power Steering Pump

Okay Bolters, I've got a question for you. I've got a 1971 Chevy C50 with a small block 350. It has a power steering pump with the separate (divorced reservoir). The pump is one of the "ham can" style mounted on the left side of engine below the alternator. I cannot find this pump anywhere. I did find one similar on classic chevy truck parts but it would not mount in the bracket I have. Has anyone had any similar experience? Can I replace this power steering pump - bracket and all with one of the more common types (with reservoir and pump in one unit) used on 73 or older pickups or large trucks? I think I would have to relocate the alternator to do this - and that is much more time and effort than I really want to put into this project. Any thoughts are appreciated.

If this is set up like most other GM pumps, the housing around the pump can be swapped to a new/rebuilt pump. The pumps inside the housings are all the same. There is a big o-ring around the pump at the front edge of the housing. It can be tough to get the housing off and back on, care must be used to seat the o-ring properly but it can be done without exotic tools, I have done it many times.

Can you post a picture of the pump so I can sure I am talking about the right thing?

The one on my '69 T-50 with a 350 has a remote reservoir and is of this type. The reservoir is at the top edge of the pic.

Sweepleader Has is Correct.

The pumps interchange in the can.
The only difference in the pump is volume and PSI.
Tom

There is a pressure/flow control under the pressure outlet fitting. The fitting has to be removed to remove the housing and the control will fall out. If there is any doubt about the pressure of the new pump, install the control from the old pump. Do not return a core pump for rebuild credit until you are sure the new pump works correctly. If you want more boost, a different control can be installed. The control can be accessed with the pump on the engine by removing the pressure line and the fitting, use a magnet to extract the control.

You will need a special puller to remove the pulleys and a quality bolt and washer to press the pulley back on. Do not use power tools on the puller or bolt.

I have modified standard power steering pumps with the fill cap in the sheet metal housing for an external reservoir by cutting the tapered section away and soldering a piece of sheet metal on to make the thing round. Since the housing carries no pressure, lead/tin acid core solder like a radiator shop or a HVAC shop uses and a Propane torch is all that's needed to attach the modified reservoir.
Jerry

Sweepleader,

That looks like my pump but my bracket looks different. Original problem was my pulley but when I replaced and reinstalled pump I must have damaged the fitting on the back side and it now leaks. I've cleaned it up some and will give it one more try but if I can't get it fixed may need to follow your suggestion. I have a pic of the pump but can't seem to attach - something about the file type. I'm new to posting on here so may take some time to figure that out.

Thanks for your help. Any idea what part number and supplier if I need to replace the inside of the pump as suggested?

If the pump works and the housing is not damaged, you should not have to separate or replace either. The pump could be had at NAPA, just tell them what it is for. They likely will not have the housing, you will have to use yours.

If the pressure fitting is bad, you could get a new one from Chevrolet, I don't know if they are available from NAPA or other parts houses. There is an o-ring on the fitting. The fitting on the back can be replaced without pulling the pump off the engine. If you did not pull the housing and no one has damaged it by prying on it to tighten the belt, you should not have o-ring trouble.

The outlet fitting needs to be tight and sometimes tightening the pressure hose can work it loose. That could be your leak. The flared end of the hose or the threads sometimes can be damaged during the install and cause leaks. The hose end or the hose itself could be leaking.

There are several holes in the front of the pump that are used for different brackets so any pump should fit your bracket.

If you click on "Use Full Editor" at the bottom of the "Quick Reply" window, pictures are very easy. A couple of pictures would make this easier. Clean off the leaking oil with carb or brake cleaner and a air hose, then run the engine just long enough to get a drip or two to tell exactly where the leak is. I find its best to have someone else start the engine while I watch for the leak, sometimes it takes more than one cleaning to find it.

okay, here are the pics (I think?)

Yeah, that is a "normal" pump. That hose looks like it leaks, prolly gonna have to change it. :{)

The housing is pretty beat up too and I am assuming that is the bad pulley you have already changed. It looks out of line with the crank pulley, maybe that is fixed too.

I would pinpoint the leak before doing any more work, you may be able to fix it from the outside.

Did the pump come off a similar truck? If so the pressure/flow control should be about right. If you have trouble replacing the hose, you could change the outlet fitting to one with female threads for a more common hose end. No need for that if you can get a good hose.

Yes, I had to cut that hose to get it off bc the joint at the end was turning the valve and it would not remove otherwise. The old pulley was warped and that was causing the out of line. Took long time to find a pulley but finally got one. I've got a new pressure hose - I think it was one for a pickup of that era but it seems to fit - but not sure if I need to change pumps (primarily due to the damaged fitting on the back side) which pump I should look for.

I"m going to try the fitting again this weekend now that I've cleaned it up. Thanks for your input I may be getting back to you with more questions in a few days.

Look for one that fits the truck first, let them figure out what that is. The parts guys will interchange it, even in a junk yard.

What is wrong with the fitting? If it is just loose that is normal, it screws in there and can be tightened. If it is destroyed you can still replace it without changing the pump.

just to close out this loop, I cleaned up my valve on the back of the pump and it had a flat edge on the flange where the pressure pipe fits (I must have damaged it in changing the pulley) It as on the flange end where there were no threads and it was a small bit of damage so I got out the old JB Weld and was able to fill in the flat spot, file it down to match the rest and then put some thread tape over it and it is not reinstalled and seems to be sealed up. Thanks for all the suggestions, if I have problems with it in the future I'll know I have some options.