The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Another s-10 swap question / AD Engineering

I was going to put a mustang II under my '50 3/4 ton and shorten the frame to make it a into a 1/2 ton. I've been seriously considering just doing an s-10 frame swap to get the best of both worlds but I'm not thrilled about the $1000 price tag for the kit from AD engineering. Is there a more cost effective way to do this swap?

Lots of guys have made their own mounts to perform the swap.

If you can cut steel, drill, measure and weld,
I'm with Old Sub. You can do it!
mv

That is how I am doing it. I am making my own mounts. I did not want to pay the price for the kit from ad engineering either. It has not been that difficult so far. Good luck...Dave

I looked at the e-bay auction for the kit and at the AD website and thought to myself, 'those mounts looks just like running board mounts.' Can't be hard to make and the website/e=bay auction gave me a pretty good idea of how they did it. Like these guys say, if you can cut, weld, drill and measure you can do it yourself.

If you don't have the welder/torch/drill/tape measure, you could buy them for around a grand and figure out how to do it yourself, if you dare...

I am fabbing my own mounts for a 38 to S10 conv. I purchased poly donuts (jeep CJ) from mako on ebay based on some tips from a fellow 38'r on the HAMB. My cab has no rust but the floor around the stock mounting area is well cracked (it was a mineing dump truck) I am plating the perimeter of the floor with 3/16 and 1/4 flat to strengthen it and will add sq tube in some critical areas. I have some cardboard templates fabbed up for the mounts and everthing looks like a good fit. I working on getting some 1/2 ton fenders so I can determine the final position.

As far as doing it yourself, you learn as you go. If you have the talent, time and tools there is no reason not to go for it. Find other Stovebolters or HAMB'rs in your area that can help. Or depend on others to fab it up. Just stay safe and healthy along the way.

I agree with everyone that has the place and equipment and skill required to make the S10 swap. If you don't then the AD kit is the way to go. Our shop just done one for a man with a 53 and the time billed to the customer was 11 hours. It breaks down like this: remove S10 cab, clip, and bed--1hr; remove 53 cab,clip, and bed--1hr; cut off and grind smooth original S10 mounts and bob the front and rear frame rails--2 1/2 hrs; trim core support and inner fenders for steering box and A-frame clearence--1hr; position cab mounts, core support brackets, and rear bed brackets and attach each with two self drilling screws--2hrs, install bed crossmembers and set onto frame, attach with screws--2hrs; install runningboard brackets with self drilling screws--1 1/2 hrs. Our shop time is $30 an hour so the total the customer spent was: kit $995, shipping $100, installation $330, S10 purchase $300, total outlay: $1725.00. This is not bad for someone that can do the finishing work but lacks a place with power hoists, high ceiling for body pulling, lifts, plasma cutter, etc. The usual steering, brakes, trans crossmember, V8 swap etc are home shop tasks that can be handled.

Which year/model S10 is the one to get?
I've been thinking about this too.

I was advised by Robert, at AD-engineering, to use the 82-91. I used the 83 regular cab longbed which has the correct wheelbase but after seeing the frame I understood what he told me about a frame joint where the weld can be split, the frame shortened, and put right back in the same spot to be just like the factory did it. It's hard to describe but it's where the rear "C" channel frame mates to the front box frame. This opens the selection to include the stretch cab S10's also. If I remember right, they are 7" longer in wheelbase.

I used a 91 S10 frame and was pleasantly surprised to find that 5 inch heavy C-Channel fits tight inside the rails for the purpose of extending the frame if needed. The frame could easily be adjusted for length before final welding. I was alone, working in my driveway, and could easily extend or retract it to make length adjustments when rough fitting my long WB 46 Panel body. After seeing the S10 with her body off, I'm watching for other possible bodies to put over an S10 frame. This could get out of hand. 8-)
MV

That's great info...
Thanks.

I have to make a decision here pretty soon.
I'm getting ready to sandblast the frame because I was going to upgrade the rear end and get a mustang II front end...
Decisions decisions....

I am also contemplating picking up a 88 S-10 reg.cab/long box for $100, is the wheel base the same as my 54 gmc 3100?
I already have a 77 firebird front clip and rear end availible for minimal cost.
I know a experienced welder/builder who will put the frame clip in straight for $1200, and thats about the same price to my door for the ad kit.

I've got a '52 3/4 ton. I used the existing frame and put the M II in the front with the s-10 rearend in it. Running a small block with a 700R4. Had the M II in in about 3hrs, the rearend went in about 30 minutes. Removed a couple of leafs for ride hight and smoothness, can adjust both later. The rear allows me to run a 10" rear wheel with 3" back space for a semi prostreet look. Sitting lower than stock with the long wheelbase won't make the cab look so high. Other than the cost of the new M II everything else was nada. I thought about the S10 frame thing but I think this was less work.