The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors 37 1/2 ton door handle return spring

Hey Bolters, anyone have a picture of where and how the return spring goes. Mine were both missing. Thanks Bill

just got a 37 and have same question. starting to tear down and having a heck of a time with those clutch head screws.

Be prepared for some work. I bought a set of clutch head sockets and it worked on some and not on others. Sprayed them up with kroil, let them set and tried again. One I could get a vice grips on also came out. Sometimes it helps to tighten a little bit first then back out. I am just about done with my truck after 2 years of work. If I can be of any help feel free to private message me or email. If you get inside the door and can see how the handle return spring is mounted please take a picture for me. Good luck, Bill

The key to removing old rusted clutch head screws starts with Bill's advice above. Get the proper size clutch head drivers and use a penetrating oil, like Kroil. Also, be sure to take a sharp tool, like an awl or ice pick, to clean out the old rust and crud from the head. The sides are straight and if you clean them out the driver will remain in place and you can place maximum torque on the hardware. Much better than slotted screw heads or phillips, in my opinion. Some are so rusted that you break the head off. That is not the fault of the design of the hardware, just Old Man Rust winning a skirmish.
Kent

Impact drivers are your friend in removing clutch head screws. Tighten them just enough to make them move and break the bond.
I used my pneumatic hammer with a clutch head tip welded on. I also added a screwdriver welded to it as a handle to help turn the tip.

On mine the only springs are in the lock itself and a small one on lock release arm. I found some clutch head bits for a nut driver and ground them flat to keep them sharp. Kroil is the best for sure

.......ORIGINAL QUESTION:



Bill, sorry I can't get to mine right now. If you don't get an answer pretty soon let me know and I'll go pull mine..

Bill,
The only spring I am aware of is internal in the door latch. What spring are you asking about?

Kent

The handle return spring that keeps the handle level. I found nothing on mine when they were disassemble. I do have new springs but no way of knowing how the mount.

Bill,
There are no externally visible springs on the door mechanism. The spring that returns the latch and holds the handle level are internal to the latch box. So you are saying you have disassembled the latch itself and there is no spring?

Fortunately, both my latches function normally, so I have never taken the latch box itself apart. Thus, I can't help you with your question.

Kent

Thanks Kent, I have not taken the box apart so I guess that's why I seen no return spring. Bill

Hey, kinda good news!! Found pictures of door latch on Jim Carter site to repair sagging door handles on 39 to 46 trucks. Hope my 37 is the same or close and can get repaired. Will be taking pictures of mine in near future if any one is interested
Thanks to all for your help. Bill

Bill
I haven’t taken my ‘37 door locks off, so can’t offer any specific help with your questions. However, I have done so with my ‘46 and replaced the springs.

Here is a photo of the door lock on my ‘46 Chevy 1/2, after replacement of the “anti-droop” spring. It appears from the 1929-1946 Master Parts Catalog the locks are different between the two. The spring shown was sold by Jim Carters.

FWIW, the handles droop on my ‘37 as well. I don’t know if that is typical or not.

[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...DEE0123-1F80-454E-9BF6-F691BF4F637A.jpeg[/img]

Sparky, thanks for the.pics. Hope to get it looked at in the next few days. Setting up a 1927 metal lathe in my garage with overhead line shaft. Bill