The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop c-notch and lowering blocks

I have a 64 chevy c-10 short fleet. I put 3'drop coil springs in front and 4' drop in rear. I wanted to even the rear with front cause its sticks up in back. Do i need to c-notch it if i go 5 or 6 drop. Meanin i will lower 1 or 2 inches more. Or can i just use the lowering blocks?I dont kinow much aobut this.

i have ec 5" drop springs on my 64 short step side without notching.you may need an ajustible panard bar.

Lowering blocks only work with vehicles with leaf springs under the axle, not for trucks with the springs above the axle, unless you mean 2000 lb lowering blocks in the bed.

they make blocks for between the trailing arms and axle.

This is what my '66 LWB fleetside looks like under neath.

http://img153.imageshack.us/my.php?image=my66rear01c1cn.jpg

and here's is the chassis notch

http://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image=my66notch01c2th.jpg

before you ask, it was like it when I bought it, and I have no idea where you might buy the parts

Go with the notch, the panard bar change is necessary tho

Taff and others,
WOW! Have you noticed where the scrub line is if you put lowering blocks on trailing arms. It goes way below the rim. If a flat tire occures the rear suspension will drag on the ground. The end results will not be pretty!
You gotta watch that srub line when lowering anything. Never go below the lowest line of the rim.
Just my observation.

wilbur

Believe it or not, some people like it on the ground when completly "slammed".

thanks guys

Wilbur, I know what you mean. My truck was already down when I got it, the plan is to switch the whole lot over to air sometime soon.
I wouldn't like the thought of anything under there other that a tyre (note correct spelling.....LOL) on the tarmac

oh yea one thing is c-notchin my 64 gonna be a problem if i plan on usin it for a daily driver? I dont load my truck up with anything heavy.

No, As long as you use thick material for the C and plate the frame if it's not boxed already.
I went to my local fire/water protection place ( the guys that install water systems in buildings ) and they gave me a 3 in. dia. piece about 3in. long and i cut that in half lenght wise, cut the frame to match and welded and boxed.

wilbur

Chevy duty sells the notch kit...part #93-316 for $149.95...also have the adj panhard bar to go with a drop this severe...visit them online at www.chevyduty.com or call 1-800-741-1678 and order a catalog...great people to deal with and VERY knowledgeable...pevinetrans

You can fabricate your own notch kit if you have a torch and welder available. as to the daily driving, there really is no weight or stress behind the notch. so this will have no effect. you could saw the whole thing off if it wasnt for shock and panard bar mounting.

Be very careful in considering making your own notch...by doing it the


Be very careful when considering any "home brew" method of c-notch...the more heat and stress you put on that 42 year old frame the worse it will be...to much cutting and welding and you could sag that frame...a manufactured c-notch kit will be a little more expensive but it is a BOLT ON kit that requires very little cutting and comes with a template so its hard to goof up...just friendly advice from a man who has seen some really bad frame work done to lowered vehicles.

i have a class three tow hitch so im not going to notch my frame. id be afraid to tow anything heavy.

Agree if you use a hitch , but if not, there still is little needed to support rear of the notch. I notched my own sucessfully 2 yrs ago. the use of a torch in that area should not effect the strenth to any degree.

Not saying the careful use of a torch will nessasarily cause damage...but a torch and a welder in the wrong hands will cause undo stress to the point of sag or frame crackage in the future...I personally have notched my 65 and have caused no damage but i also used a kit that had backing plates and BOLTED on after the cut...no welding required. Anybody contemplating a homade c-notch using a peice of pipe welded to the frame is asking for trouble down the road...Most metal on a 40+ year old frame has rust and weak spots already.