The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Small Block c.i. trouble

O.K. here we go,I have access to a 350 or a 327,both stock bore and bone stock accesories(intake,heads,etc.)(camel humps on the 327 but would bet small valves).This is go'n in my(forgive me)49 sedan wich will be mated to an m-21 and a 342 posi rear.this thing gets driven daily but it needs to be driven harder,and make a lot more noise,y'all give me some input,its gonna be hot rodded,y'all are make'n the choice for me,so lets here what y'all think!

327! How many 327s do you see at shows, now think how many 350s you see... besides you can make just as much power with about the same money. The hot rods I like best are the ones that take a part from this car and a part from that car and make them work, not just go with what's easiest or what everyone else does. You have a chance to stand out, and that is what hot rodding is about...

I vote for the 327 too, next best thing to a 283 - a nice I6 would be better than a 350

Bill

would love to build up a 261 for it,dual carb set up some fentons,that would be cool,but that is some big ol'e rolls of dollars for a build like that(a 235 would be nice).I'm glad you guys leaned the 327 way,I've always liked those motors as well as the 283,I know its still the typical small block swap but I like to see how good I can get the little inchers to run,we'll hollar at ya'll later

Is it too late to vote? I'd choose the 327 too!

What year is the 327? Small journal or large journal? I ask because the differences between a large journal 327 and a 350 is pretty small.

1968 327,I had a discussion with a buddy of mine that has a 327 crank and he was say'n to use a 350 block with his crank to destroke it,build or buy some good heads to get pretty high but streetable comp. and It would be a pretty bad grocery getter,be'n a 1968 model motor that would be a large journal wouldnt it?it was in a camero

Yeah,that's a big journal. Good choice.
Speed

I agree with "Red58". It's not hard to build horsepower into a hotrod. Heck, you can buy new crate motors with as many ponies as you want. What is really hard to do is get second looks at street rod show with thousands of cars there. A built inlinner get it done.

Cool article/post by Fat Hack about his 285 Chevy. Figuring out these unconventional combinations is the coolest thing to me. I wish I could do it. Reminds me of the 261 Cadillac 6 that Langdon's sells and Ron Plender has in his 50 pickup Walter . :p

327 vs 350 , yes the 350 will make more torque but the 327 will scream .Early 327 small journal had forged steel cranks, double hump heads had 1.94 intake valves rated at 300 hp.You can make a 4 bolt main 327 with large journal crank and a 350 block but it is going to be a cast crank.Go for the 327 .

MAN!I just read the fat hack article,that guys got it go'n on,thats got to be one of the coolest small block'n ideas I have ever heard.Never new about the #5-#7 power rob'n battles and the diff. size header tubes to compensate for torque issues.Cool article with cooler ideas for sure!

The number 327 always had a magic sound to it. I have several. There good to build but, a 350 is cheaper to make HP with as well as stock rebuilds.

327 or 283.. both high revving engines.

High revs in a truck???

Okay, I'll throw in my vote. 350. Better yet, stroke it to a 383. The 327 would rev happier, but won't catch a 383 that easily.

It's torque baby. Especially in a truck.

If we are talking budget which all of us can relate to 327/350 is cheap compared to 383.You start adding the price tag for stroker
crank,stroker pistons, clearance the block for the stroker rods, internal balance external balance okay I have to buy a 400 flywheel, roller cam -vs- flat tappet .Ok it looks the same on the outside but those reciprocating parts cost money.Unlimited budget the 383 rocks , easy 400 hp/400 ft lbs torque .

just an update the 327 is now a 331 due to boreing,but I'm still gonna call it a 327,next step(when I get the funds),new rods,crank turned and head work,they were the small valve humps but would'nt ya know it,my uncle's a pretty good head man with all the stuff in the shop to do it with.I'm shoot'n for 10.2 to 1 comp. or a little higher but still able to run pump gas.So far I have about 300$ invested,165.00 for pistons,130.00 for block cleaned and bored.After I get new rods and bearrings and cam,(hopefully around 400.00$)I'm on the super budget for finishing the motor,you know,swap,trade,will work for parts type thing.I'm going to try to get this motor built and running the roads for around 1200.00$ hopefully less but probablly more after all is said and done.