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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 280
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 280
Hey All,

I have the truck up on the lift and I am thinking I want to replace the entire brake line system from hub to hub. Has anyone here done that in the last few years? The truck is a 1951 That I pulled out of a preachers field. I have brought the motor back to life, reconditioning as I go. Now that It's up on the lift and I redid the braking in all four wheels I want to keep it going. I see several "Kits" out there but I am sure some are better than others and probably include more than others. So tell me what you guys know, Who has done a HUB to HUB line replacement, where did you get your kit and what did you like or dislike about it.

Thanks!

Walter


*UNDER CONSTRUCTION*
1953 Chevrolet 3100 1/2 ton-previously abandoned resto.

My Project Bolt

I hate when people leave their brains at home. Seriously when did critical thinking and customer service go out the window? How about common sense and striving to go the extra mile? Idiots, surrounded by idiots it tell you.
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 14
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 14
Did it on my 58 Apache 32 about 1 year ago. Got all the metal lines in stainless from Inline tube, not that much more than plain steel. Got the shoes off the shelf @ NAPA. I don't remember where the wheel cylinders and rubber hoses came from. Stock master cylinder I'm pretty sure was Classic Parts.com.
Every thing went smooth.
I love pre-bent lines.
I've used Inline tube on 2 60's cars as well.

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,232
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Online: Content
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Posts: 6,232
Buy a 25' roll of Copper-Nickel Brake line from your local parts store and make your own. You'll need to borrow or buy a Double Flare Tool and Tubing Bender. Then take one line off at a time and bend a new to match, it really is easy to do. When you tighten the fittings up tight, then back it off and re-tighten it again, this helps seat the flares together.

Good luck!

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
Joined: Dec 2010
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S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 280
Where would I get the appropriate fittings?


*UNDER CONSTRUCTION*
1953 Chevrolet 3100 1/2 ton-previously abandoned resto.

My Project Bolt

I hate when people leave their brains at home. Seriously when did critical thinking and customer service go out the window? How about common sense and striving to go the extra mile? Idiots, surrounded by idiots it tell you.
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,232
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Online: Content
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,232
Either re-use the old ones if good or take then to the parts store to match up and buy new...any NAPA or good parts store should have everything you need to do this job.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 554
I replaced every part in my brake system except the backing plates. I purchased pre-bent stainless steel lines from In-Line tube https://www.inlinetube.com/ . I was able to find all the brass fittings at NAPA. I was quite happy with the brake lines with the exception of my choice of selecting stainless steel lines. I had some leaking issues at the fittings. That required repeatedly tightening and loosing the fittings several times. Apparently the flare angle is slightly different on the stainless fittings. It has been in service 6 years now and no leaks after the initial install. The lines still look like new. I am happy with them but would probably not go with stainless if I did this again.
You can find a lot of info about brake line choices searching this forum.

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 444
'
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
' Offline
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 444
Walter ,

Inline Tube makes a Stainless Steel ready made kit with fittings pre installed .

LINK

for your 1953 half ton

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/sctb5301

Scroll down & take a look at related products .



George
'54 3600

Last edited by '54 3600; 10/28/2019 12:59 PM. Reason: add

1954 3600
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
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I have bought pre-bent stainless steel lines from Inline Tube and Classic Tube - they even matched-up the correct lengths and ends needed on a 54 3104 Hydra-Matic system.

A few lines were a little long, but that was not a big problem (being too short would have been problem).

Joined: Dec 2017
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D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I used stainless lines from inline tube also. I will admit I would not use the stainless again. Those lines hemorrhaged every where and It took me forever to get the lines to seat correctly and stop leaking. What a mess. I recently did the lines on a friends 57 chevrolet (car) and used regular prebent steel lines from inline tube. Not a single leak.


Mike
Joined: Sep 2001
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
I had no breakage in three different stainless steel systems.
I had/have no leakage in three different stainless steel systems(5-15 years old
Just lucky, I guess?

However: do not be afraid to use A LITTLE "stainless steel grease" on the tube ends (nut side of tube).
Stainless Steel Anti-Seize Lubricant

Slowly/lighty/gently tighten and untighten the attachment "nut".
Use a little tighter last tightening of each attachment nut.

Joined: Mar 2007
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T
Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,433
Steel brake line use a 45 dergee flare fitting while Stainless use a 37 degree flare fitting. You will need to seat the fitting repeatedly as Tim stated to get the flare to seat evenly. Once It's seated there should be no issue with leaks.

Last edited by TUTS 59; 10/28/2019 4:08 PM.

~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
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B
Sir Searchalot
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1. Don't buy tubing and flare your own.
2. Buy preflared sections at FLAPS or a regular steel kit.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Sep 2001
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
I talked with the people at the company I used for SS on my 1954 3104 Hydra-Matic truck.
They said they would use original-style fittings (I sent them my fitting for them to compare).

I'll see if I can find the name of the company.

Joined: Jun 2011
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E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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SS is fine although hard to work. Most shops around here have CuNi in various lengths, very handy.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Sep 2001
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
If you will/can make the brake lines yourself, I agree with Ed.

If you are having a shop do it for you: get an estimate and compare it to stainless steel lines from a vendor (there are two or three good vendors that sell/make stainless steel brake lines for our old trucks).

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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I like the SS inline brakeline kits. They fit, You will never need to replace them or worry about them.
SS flares are harder to seat in the fittings, but tightening and loosening 3-4 times while watching where the wrench stops each time makes it very doable. You will know when you are done when the wrench won't go further than where the previous tightening sequence ended up.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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