The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Adjusting Valves

I have a Chevy SB 350 and need to adjust the valves after break-in. I am relatively new to working on engines, so I need some assurrance.

I have hydraulic lifters and factory rocker arms. Prior to starting the recently overhauled engine for the first time, I adjusted the valves using a somewhat arbitrary method; tighten until there is no rocker arm play. As you can see, I am leary using the engine until I do it right. It runs well, but I want be be sure the valves operate at their optimum.

Based on some internet research, I found the following procedure: warm up the engine; pull the valve covers; set to TDC; adjust the appropriate valves (i have a chart) by backing off the nut until you can spin the push rod by hand, tighten up the nut until it won't spin (zero lash), then tighten up the nut 1/2 turn more; then rotate the engine crankshaft one revolution and do the other valves.

Any better ideas?

The method you found on the internet appears to be close. To be sure though you should follow the instructions of a good manual. I find myself referring to the "How to build your small-block chevy" manual off and on when putting a motor together as a way to confirm any procedure which may be called into question. A decent Chiltons manual should also have the instructions for hydraulic valve instruction in it. Don't guess at it though.

Good luck.

The method you described is for the first time adjustments to get your engine running. If you do this adjustment again, you will just push the pushrod deeper into the lifter, not centering it. Find an old stamped steel factory valve cover and cut the raised portion directly above the rocker bolts out. Install this cover on one side and start the engine. Back off each adjusting nut until the rocker "clatters". Tighten it back up just until it's quiet. Then tighten down a 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Do this to all 16 rockers and they should be very close to centered.
That's how I've done it for years,
Scott

48bigtrucks is right on
That is the way I have always done the stock SBC Hydraulic lifer adjustment, Never a problem one!!!

I second the above two!

Although I have never done the idea of cutting the center of the valve cover - and I always make a mess (motor runs at 60psi)... I now have a new procedure!

- Ryan

I've done a 350 several times and the way I did
it was to rotate the engine to the #1 piston
firing position. You then can adjust the
following valves: Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8. Intake 1, 2,
5, 7.
Rotate the engine one revolution and then adjust
the following valves: Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7. Intake
3, 4, 6, 8. I would turn them down 3/4 of a turn
but if the book says 1/2 then go 1/2.
I have also done it by cuting out the valve cover, but if you don't feel that you have the
mechanical skills to do that, then you should do
it the way I described and have no problems.

I inherited 2 '60's Rocker covers with the tops cut out...........works great for the "running and warmed-up" adjustment.
Remember to only tighten the rocker arm 1/8th turn at a time............and give the lifter 10 sec. or so to "catch-up" to your adjustments. If you go too fast, you will feel the engine slow down, as you are "loading" the components.......
On an older engine with high miles, don't sweat it as much..............
With solid lifters, you can do it running.........but you would have to ask my old neighbor the trick for that..........he was doing it in the '50's on 265's and early 283's...........Duntov "SR" grind..........