I fixed my speedometer with the help of Rusty at: https://www.speedoservice.com/ He has an old time shop he took over from his Dad. He also rebuilds starters, alternators, and generators.
Last edited by Wayne67vert; 07/14/20192:58 AM.
Wayne 1938 1-Ton Farm Truck -30- Stovebolt Gallery Forums When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!
Took a load yesterday with 1 1/4 cord of Ponderosa pine in my '50 COE to a couple of friends who heat exclusively with firewood. I wasn't even on my overload springs but had to drive carefully as I dropped about 1500 feet in elevation to my destination.
Traded for a nicer set of buckets seats for the 49 GMC. Since it was already a resto-mod with ripped up buckets when I traded for it, I'm playing the hand I was dealt, LOL. 80's Honda buckets from unknown model...
I took it shopping in 91 F temps to run the a/c to see if it gets cold. It does but I have 4 vents one on the left of the steering wheel one in the middle and 2 by the right side door only the one by the steering wheel puts out air. The one failing in the system is the vent hookups are oval and the vent hose is round and they don't want to stay on.
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am. 1954 3100 Chevy truck In the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix 1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
Cool! I love dual quads. Easy to tune, great combination of economy and performance. You can run them progressive or direct linkage. Not to mention the WOW factor!
Chiseled and wire-wheeled 95% of the caked-on grease off of the '58 frame, also removed the master cylinder and rusted hard lines from it. Almost ready to haul the frame to the local body shop and have them straighten it up...
Found a front bumper, kick panal vents, door panal and sill covers in Columbus Oh., but im in Pgh Pa. He just so happened to be meeting his son in Wheeling WV today So it worked out well for me....for a change...lol
Been chasing a charging gremlin for a month or so. Just an annoying low alternator output problem. Today I decided to trace back some wiring that had been redone at the time the new engine was installed. Reached to the center wire on the alternator and found it loose enough that I could spin the nut off by hand. Tightened it up and fired up the engine. Volt meter went to 14.5 volts then eased back to 13 volts the longer it ran. Problem solved.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Chris (ndkid275) and I drove to the Fredericksburg swap meet this morning and went treasure hunting. I found a brand new set of steel bed rails for $30, a new pair of HD car ramps for $15, and 4 NOS wheel cylinder rebuild kits from an old timer for $30. We enjoyed hotdogs, hamburgers and cold lemonade for lunch under the pavilion while taking advantage of the cool breeze. Lots of really cool trucks and cars for sale to look at in the car coral. Us two ‘bolters had some fun today!
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
I drained all the gas out of the tank, replaced the rubber fuel lines , and the fuel filter. Then fueled her up and took her out for a run around the neighborhood a few time and tried to blow the cobwebs out. This 59 was my dads and when he passed away my sister couldn’t let it go. So I try to keep it running for her. Two years ago she wasn’t driving it because the paint had flakes off the door real bad and she was embarrassed by it. So we took it off and stripped it down and repainted it. We just got the door back on it a couple weeks ago. Now it’s back on the road. I bet it will be in the church parking lot this Sunday.
The wife and I (and dog) recently took a road trip through the Ozarks to Ava, Mo to pick up some 1954 Chevy doors. (My truck has a 53 door and a badly rusted 54 door.) We went on to Springfield, Mo afterward to the birthplace of Route 66 to enjoy some great food, attractions, and friendly people. It was a beautiful drive and a joy to see this part of America. We moved the truck into the garage back in April and I have been collecting parts and hopefully a little knowledge along the way to undertake this restoration. The “truck in the garage” part was huge and involved a lot of work freeing up the wheels and busting up concrete rubble that the car hauler rolled my truck onto 15 years ago. (I was not there when he moved the truck!) With the help of my wife and a JD Gator we made it happen. I am really proud of these doors and other than some surface rust, and holes where the mirrors were bolted on, they are in very good shape.
Cruisin' in the Passing Lane Former owner of a 1954 3100 w/Hydra-Matic "To know what you know and what you do not know, that is true knowledge." - Confucius
Last night after work I drove the ‘50 1/2 ton over to Chris‘s (ndkid275) house in Converse where we adjusted the valves on my 216. It’s always had that tic-tic-tic sound at idle, and it was always louder the faster I drove. I’ve frequently thought about adjusting the valves myself, but even after reading the procedure I was hesitant to tackle the job, but Chris was an expert and knew exactly how to do it so he taught me while I turned the wrench and screwdriver. After we were finished, I started it up and was amazed at how quiet the old motor sounded! Smooth as butter and sounded like a sewing machine! For the last year I’ve had trouble with my three speed tranny locking up between first and second gear, so we took the opportunity to take the cover off the steering box to peer inside. The corners of the pawls were not rounded off and appeared to be in pretty good shape, but we both agreed the black grease looked old and was a little bit low. I dug all the old grease out of the box and cleaned it up so Chris could install fresh new red hi-temp grease. Chris offered to follow me home 19 miles away in his ‘51 1/2 ton and the motor has never run so good. It actually had more pep and was so quiet!! The shifter worked much better too. Thanks for the help Chris. There’s nothing like working on your old iron with a fellow ‘bolter.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Dish soap works well; however, some dish soaps might contain compounds/aromatics that might not be good for rubber-seals. Nonetheless, Steele Rubber Products recommends "everyday dish soap and water".
Walmart has a Personal Water Based Lubricant Jelly in small tubes for about $3.00. It has no additives, is fragrance-free, and is water soluble. It will not hurt rubber-seals.
Not finished, waiting on the insert. Rusty, this is the first time I have tried it in 11 years and know the installer did not use any kind of restraint and they are almost impossible to reach now that everything is installed. If the was off the outlet it would be an easy fix but they are off up on the main unit near the firewall.
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am. 1954 3100 Chevy truck In the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix 1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
To tclederman, Yea I did atad bit of research b4 diving in. I actually tried the " soap and water" in a squirter but didn't seem like I could get it slippery enough. The soap I actually used was Ajax dish soap, that also states on the back that is used as a hand soap, which is what I do with it. Never the less, thats all I had available at the garage besides hand cleaner with grit in it...᠁ Didn't think that would be a good idea..HA
A couple weeks ago I disassembled the front end to have the core support repaired. While it was apart I built my first set of spark plug wires and changed the plugs. I doubt I'll ever get a pre-made set again. So satisfying. The truck is back together, carburetor adjusted, still need to check/set the timing, and check/top-off the transmission and rear axle. Also adjusted the hood since the new core mounting pads and hardware changed dimensions enough to make the hood not want to close. Removed the latch to get the hood adjusted, then loosely bolted the latch back on to let it align itself on the stud, then tightened it all down. The front end sounds much more solid than it did before I took it apart. Tomorrow I can drive it again, and it will be going to get an alignment, the front right tire is wearing on the outside. Tire rotation is in order too.
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
Been forever since I last worked on my '52. Pulled the intake and exhaust to repair the hear riser (due to my faulty initial repair at time of restoration)...see my new post in the Engine section on how I fixed the oversized holes in the manifold.
I decided to tackle some “bodywork”. All i really did was reverse what someone else already did 30yrs ago. When they started to “restore” the truck they stripped the paint from the grille surround and drivers fender and left then bare steel just to sit and get pitted and rust up. They did at least put some primer on the doors and they are luckily 100% rust free. The patina on the rest of the truck is perfect for me for the time being until I actually am ready to hammer out the body and paint work. So I basically just blended in the previously touched parts. I wire wheeled all the bare steel and shot it with black primer then i had a rattle can made up of the correct factory Ferrara Blue color and i dusted it on light and then when back and rubbed through it to match the rest of the trucks fade. It honestly came out way better than i hoped for and it dosent look like i “fixed” anything. Used a little red oxide primer on the fender edges to rub through and really make it believable haha.
Barnfind49, turned out great. I need to do some similar work on mine. When you say rubbed through is that a technical term or did you literally just rub through the paint to simulate wear? What did you use to rub it? Before or after the paint dried?
Barnfind49, turned out great. I need to do some similar work on mine. When you say rubbed through is that a technical term or did you literally just rub through the paint to simulate wear? What did you use to rub it? Before or after the paint dried?
Yea I literally just rubbed through the light dusting of paint i put over the black primer so it would match whats left of the original paint on the truck. I used a red scotchbrite pad after paint was dry. Paint actually dried enough to do that within probably 10—15 min. I put just enough on to have some color then proceeded to rub away at it.
Once again, great job. Thanks for the info. I need to repaint some spots on my truck and I don't want them to "look" like I just repainted them.
No problem. Just remember the “less is more” theory while doing it. If you use more than a dusting of paint to just blend in some kind of color then you will besanding or scuffing with a pad forever. I did the entire tailgate, entire drivers fender, grill surround and touched up the bottom of passenger front fender with not even 1 bomb can of paint.
I believe I've finally found the new 235/244 engines timing sweet spot. After mucho trial and error I've settled on 8 degress BTDC and a hot idle of 600 rpm. Since the engine isn't stock the factory spec's no longer applied. I like as smooth an idle as possible and anything below 600 produces the lumpy idle a 264 3/4 race cam provides for those that like such vibrations. Me, I'll take the performance but I likes smooth, LOL. Dave
My original floor plug became hard and finally separated into two parts, so I ordered a new one from Eckler’s via Amazon and It arrived yesterday. It’s really well made and fit the hole perfectly. It’s nice to not have to deal with that problem anymore.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
I decided to tackle some “bodywork”. All i really did was reverse what someone else already did 30yrs ago. When they started to “restore” the truck they stripped the paint from the grille surround and drivers fender and left then bare steel just to sit and get pitted and rust up. They did at least put some primer on the doors and they are luckily 100% rust free. The patina on the rest of the truck is perfect for me for the time being until I actually am ready to hammer out the body and paint work. So I basically just blended in the previously touched parts. I wire wheeled all the bare steel and shot it with black primer then i had a rattle can made up of the correct factory Ferrara Blue color and i dusted it on light and then when back and rubbed through it to match the rest of the trucks fade. It honestly came out way better than i hoped for and it dosent look like i “fixed” anything. Used a little red oxide primer on the fender edges to rub through and really make it believable haha.
Excellent work
Shane
Shane's Toys... 2007 Forester XT Limited (2nd Owner) 1991 Cherokee Laredo (2nd Owner) 1981 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside 8,600 Camper Special (3rd Owner) 1965 Chevy 3/4 Ton Fleetside (3rd Owner)
Installed a new aftermarket window regulator on the 49 3100, surprisingly it seems to fit and function as it should. Keeping the original for future rebuild.
