The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop how much for a v8?

i am looking to buy a small-block chevy 350 with a manual trans for my 59 3/4 ton. how much am i looking at to pick one up from a salvage yard that is in good shape. i plan to rebuild it with new pistons/cam.

R&D: Anything from 0 here take it to what you can afford. There is a blue million out there! We (me and my boys) would buy an old car use it for the demolition derby keep the 350's junk the rest.

I have $700.00 in the one I'm putting in my 59. Its totally overhauled short block w/ core exchange. Finishing the rest myself. popcorn The Truth is Out There (Start looking for an older couple that has a old car with one in it, try to deal) Salvaage yards are all right if they will give you pastowners name or history.

R&D-

FYI, I got my 308 CSB V8 out of a van that caught fire for $275. Needed some machining on the heads and misc. parts that added another $200. Used 350TH cost me $150. I agree with Pops that you can keep it as cheap as you like or spend as much as you like with lots-o-parts out there.

Keep us posted on you progress-

I just bought a complete 74 C10 with 454 and a new TH400 (and a buncha other new parts) for $550.

The 454 has a rod knock. That's ok. I'm buyin it for the suspension and steering to transplant into my 64. The 454 is just a bonus. And I've got guys askin me for parts off it already. I may make enough in partin it out to come way with the suspension, steering, rear end motor and trans...and still get my $550 back.

There are plenty of deals out there. I found this one in the local thrifty ads. Keep your eyes open and one will pop up.

is the original 235 worth much to anybody. i want to sell it to try and recover some costs. it is in running condition, i drove the truck down the street with it yesterday. it has the 4 speed with the granny gear attatched to it.

R and D,

Your old 235 full oiler is worth something to someone. It might take you a week or a month, but someone, somewhere will take if off your hands. If you were close to MN, I would consider it...but I am guessing you live somewhere warm and cozy.

The Heck With A Small Block,Buy And Old Cadillac With A 472-500 ci Engine.You Could Pick One Up For A Couple Of Hundred From The Junkyard.These Engines Live For Well Over 300 Thousand Miles.Clean It Paint It And Go!!!And These Engines Only Weigh 50 Pounds More Than A Small Block!!! Just Ask Il Tell All You Need To Know,Talk About COOL!!! GMCJOHN

thanks for the replies. i agree, a caddy 500 would be cool, but i am going the 350 route due to cost limitations. i have a few more questions: i want to use a 350 with a manual tranny. i am trying to find an older junked gm truck with a 350/5-speed. can i use the original 1-ton rearend? would it hold up to 350-400 hp? how do i go about getting a drive shaft to connect the two, can mine be resized to the right length? i though about using the rearend out of the engine donor car, but i already had to buy wheels for my 8-lug hubs, and replacing those is not an option. i am on a REALLY tight budget, so please keep the suggestions feasable for me.
thanks!

R&D-

I can't profess to being an expert here, but that won't stop me fom sharing my opinion! I think the old rear is possible, but keeping it will present new challenges. Depending on the manual transmission you use (are you sticking with granny gear or looking for something that went with a late model 350?), there may be real problems in connecting power to the (stock?) 48 driveshaft (in a torque tube, right?) and rear differential. Keeping the stock shaft-differential set-up may be more expensive than using the donor rear and purchasing new wheels. I would consider the gear ratio in the 48 rearend as something you would prefer to change if this beast will be doing any highway travelling. Also, the donor rear will likely have better suspension, so the ride could be enhanced dramatically. For simplicity and less hassle, I would recommend using the donor rearend from a compatible donor. In my own experience, we just needed to find a junk driveshaft of the right length to make the switch and those are not very expensive. You'll spend money to get it in place, but you'll gain in power transfer, lack of vibration, better ratios, and a smoother ride. You may be able to resell the 8 lug wheels too.

Just my 2 cents-

i plan to use the manual tranny that comes with the 350, and junk the 4 speed granny tranny and torque tube. chnaging the rearend gear would be ok, i just don't want to have to change the differential. the wheels are staying.

R&D-

Thanks for the clarification. I haven't done any work on the original rearends, so I'll defer to other experts on making this sort of change. Message traffic indicates that a lot of folks go with new Patrick's gears to gain a better ratio. You might look there for more info. Good Luck!

A 59 3/4 ton will not have a torque tube but an open driveshaft.

You go by what GMC John says,,,,I seen the one he put togather and it is one cool ol bolt....How ya doin John?

Im in the middle of purchasing a used 1970 472ci caddy motor and its TH400 trans for $500. The car runs, and good, and I'll be stealing the 4-core radiator as well. I would love to stay with a manual trans but the Caddy motors don't match to Chevy trans, so that means finding a stong enough manual trans and buying the $250 adapter and $200 flywheel to make it work. Too much money for me!!

My 59 has the 3.92 posi factory rear, so I should be safe there. This motor stock is rated at 375hp and 525ft-lbs of tourqe. With an eldebrock intake you're at SBC wheight!!

I'm in Arizona and this old Caddy parts guy has MANY 30's-80's Cadillac motors rebuildible or running. So with alittle drive shaft work and motor mount fab I'll have myself a real mover!

Hang on to your stovebolt though, they're still the best from the 50's!!

Whatever you buy make it older than '73 so the power is decient. I like buying running motors for 2-500, and a SBC rebuild is the least expensive way to go!
Good luck,
j

Here are my machine shop charges.

Parts.

Pistons, rings, rods, main & cam bearings, freeze plugs, rv cam and lifters, oil pump, timing chain and gear, full gasket set.

Part # GK 283-02

$412.00
25.65 tax

437.65 total parts

Machine work.

Bore. $80.00
R&R Camshaft bearings and freeze plugs. $40.00
Degrease Block $25.00
Grind Crank. $75.00
Drill crank for non press type harmonic balancer. $22.50
Recondition big end of rods. $72.00
R&R Pistons on rods. $32.00

Total. Too much but I've already paid for it.

I could have redone a 350 for alot less.

Looks like my grand total will be $784.15.

Then I get to put it back together and get heads done. I can pick a pair of redone heads at another machine shop for $200.00 or have mine redone about the same.

Total about $1000.00 and a month of waiting.

Jegs has a goodwrench 350 for $1,299.00 with a warranty or like these guys said just get one out of a salvage yard.

I've learned a lot from my experience and I've never redone a motor before so I'm going to have fun doing it. I'm not mad but I probably won't go this route again.

My .02 from my project.

Bessie, what motor did you have redone?

thx,
jason

ihave a 64 with a chevy350 its a tire burner with the origanal 4 speed in it it can pull anything i use it for a servioe truok its great for that

Sorry my motor is a 283 out of a 67 chevrolet truck or so the casting number says. So if any of you are doing a numbers matching deal I'll have a primo 283 with matching heads in my truck.

I dropped 2 grand on my 383, and another 600 for my 700r4 (kevlar bands, shift kit, and all the other goodies. Just depends on your budget and what you want your end product truck to do.